A desert kingdom tucked away in the midst of
hills, an impregnable citadel, an impressive royal lineage stretching back 26
generations, a do or die attitude and a fierce sense of independence characterise
Udaipur. Unlike its desert counterparts in Rajasthan, Udaipur is situated in
the forested, hilly region of Aravalli Ranges in complete contrast to the arid
deserts of Marwar in the northwest.
Udaipur- dream destination in the desert, whose sagas of great valour and stories
of high romance add colour and character to a history as proud and unrelenting
as it is long. The kingdom of Mewar was ruled by the Sisodia dynasty for over
1200 years from Chittorgarh before Maharana Udai Singh II founded Udaipur in
1568 following the final sacking of their hill fortress. In sharp contrast to
its spartan and martial persona are lakes, hills, temples, gardens and fairy-tale
palaces that make Udaipur the most romantic and enchanting place in Rajasthan.
Apart from Udaipur's own splendours, there are several other places to visit
in its vicinity – Jaisamand Lake, the fort of Kumbhalgarh and the temples
at Ranakpur, Eklingji, Nagda, Kankroli and Nathdwara.
History
Udaipur is the jewel of Mewar a kingdom ruled by Sisodia dynasty for 1200 years.
The foundation of the city has an interesting legend associated with it. According
to legend Maharana Udai Singh, The Maharana was out hunting as he met a holy
man when he mediating on a hill overlooking the Lake Pichola. The Hermit Blessed
the Maharana and told him to build a Palace at that very spot as it would be
protected. The Maharana followed his advise and Udaipur came in to being, overlooking
the aquamarine waters of the lake Pichola stands the shimmering granite and
marble lake palace, a harmonious blend of courtyards, Pavilions, terraces, corridors,
rooms and hanging Gardens. Udaipur was last of the numerous Mewar capitals.
It was in Udaipur that legendary Maharana Pratap was born. He was obsessed with
Chittaur and the past glories of the Sisodia clan possessed his mind. Maharana
Pratap left Udaipur to win back Chittaur from the Mughals. But he failed in
his attempts and Udaipur remained the capital of Mewar till India got her independence.
The memory of the failure of noble Pratap gives Udaipur its pervading mood of
nostalgic wistfulness.
Places to See
Udaipur is a city of visual treats; placid lakes, plush places, sprawling havelis,
gardens, museums and monuments. It is little wonder then why it has also been
a favourite location for film shoots, royal events and corporate get-togethers.
The city is proud of its heritage as a centre for the performing arts, miniature
paintings and crafts. It is tourist friendly and a great place to walk around
at leisure.
CityPalace is the largest palace complex in Rajasthan rising 30 metres above
Lake Pichola. The 244 metre long Palace is moulded in soft yellow stone on
a rocky promontory on the north west shore of the lake. It is a multifaceted
structure comprising courtyards, pavilions, terraces, hanging gardens and
corridors. It is partly preserved as a museum displaying various artifacts.
The main entrance is through the triple arched gate, the 'Tripolia' with eight
marble porticos. The Maharana would weigh himself and distribute an equivalent
amount of gold to his subjects under the arch. The highlights of the Palace
is 'Mor Chowk' known for its intricate peacock mosaics in glass and 'chinni
chitrashala' known for it blue and white ceramics. The museum is open from
9.30 am to 4.30 pm daily. There are two entrances to this complex - the Ganesh
Deori which leads to the Rajya Angan.
LakePichola has two islands which are situated 30 minutes from the shore
- Jag Niwas and Jag Mandir. Boats to these islands leave from the City Palace
jetty between 10 amd-5pm and charge Rs 75 per person. A trip to the island
in a solar powered boat costs Rs100 per person.
The Lake Palace on Jag Niwas Island in the middle of the Pichola Lake was
built by Maharana Jagat Singh II in 1754. It is the fine example of architectural
creativity. It is bigger than jag Mandir and is now converted into a luxury
hotel. JagmandirIsland was initiated by Maharana Karan Singh, but was renovated
and restructured by Maharana Jagat Singh. It is said that Mughal Emperor Shah
Jahan, derived some of his inspiration for the Taj Mahal from this palace
after staying here in 1623-24 while at war with his father Emperor Jehangir.
The view of the palaces and shoreline from the islands at sunset is one of
the most memorable images of Rajput splendour.
The Fateh Sagar Lake situated to the north of the lake Pichhola, is connected
by a canal. And has three islands afloat it. The largest is Nehru Park which
is a garden island, the second a smaller one which carries a jet fountain
and on the third stand the Udaipur Solar Observatory. This lake serves as
a source of drinking water of the city to Udaipur. Manned and pedal boats
take you to the island.
The Bharatiya Lok Kala Mandir is Udaipur's folk museum and is situated on
Panch Vati Road north of Chetak Circle. The exhibits here include village
paintings, puppets, printing blocks, terracotta, costumes, musical instruments,
toys, jewelry and photographs of local Bhil and Garasia tribal people. The
hosts entertain puppet shows in its auditorium. The museum is open between
9am and 6pm daily. And the puppet shows are held between 6pm and 7pm.
Shilpgram, the crafts village located 15 minutes north west of Udaipur is
a quaint village which has houses from the four states of Rajasthan, Gujarat,
Goa and Maharashtra. A model settlement depicting India's cultural heritage,
it hosts a 10-day craft fair every year in the last fortnight of December,
which is one the biggest of its kind in India. It was set up to promote and
preserve India's traditional architecture, music, dance and crafts of the
people of Western India. The ethnic village which covers an area of 70 acres
also has a museum, an art gallery, and a huge outdoor auditorium called "Mukta
Kashi". You can travel to Shilpigram by taxi, autorickshaw or bicycle.
AharMuseum situated 15 minutes east of Udaipur near the Centographs of the
Maharanas is a museum which has a limited but rare collection of earthen pottery,
sculptures and other archaeological finds. Some of these date back to 1700
BC. The tenth century metal figure of Buddha is a special attraction.
JaisamandLake is the largest artificial Lake in India and the second largest
in Asia. Located 52 kms south east of Udaipur, it was created by Maharaja
Jai Singh in 1685 by constructing a dam on the Gomti river. It covers an area
of 36sqkm. The summer palaces of the Queens of Udaipur surround Jaisamand
Lake on all sides. The lake rims seven islands all of which are inhabited
by the Bhil tribe of Rajasthan. On the dam is a Shiva temple, surrounded by
cento graphs. Tourists are allowed to boat, swim and dive in the lake.
The forests around the lake Jaisamand, which once were the hunting grounds
of Maharanas of Mewar, have now been converted into a wild life sanctuary,
and is home to a variety of bird life, panthers, leopards, deer, wild boar
and crocodiles. The best time to visit the sanctuary is between November and
June.
Udai Sagar Lake which is located 15 km east of Udaipur is a picturesque lake
created on the Berach river by Maharana Udai Singh to give his subjects adequate
water supply for domestic and agricultural purposes. The lake was completed
by 1565. In 1573, Kunwar Man Singh invited Maharana Pratap Singh to meet him
at this lake to discuss the terms of surrendering to the Mughal Emperor Akbar.
Pratap refused the invitation and insulted the Rajput traitor. This led to
the Battle of Haldighati in June 1576. And it was near Udai Sagar that Maharana
Raj Singh, defeated the army of Emperor Aurangazeb.
Excursion
Fascinating Udaipur will urge you to want more. Those are when you must get
away and explore itssurroundings, check into a fort turned hotel or a resort
at the top of a peak. The experience will rejuvenate you.
Kumbhalgarh Fort
situated less than two hours away from Udaipur is a 15th century fort and wild-Life
sanctuary. It stretches across 36 kms of the Aravali Mountains and is 1100 m
above sea level and holds the distinction of being unconquerable. The fort is
just 60 kms away from Udaipur. It is fortified by high walls, thirteen mountain
peaks, seven great gates, seven ramparts, bastions and watchtowers. On top of
the fort is the Badal Mahal Palace, the birthplace of Maharana Pratap Singh.
It is approachable by road that winds through rough deep ravines and thick forests.
The Fort Wall stretches for miles and you can walk on it.
Gahnerao
is and hour from Ranakpur and houses the castle Lord Krishna's ardent worshipper
the legendary Meera Bai, who it is said spent her childhood here. Within the
red sandstone walls of the 15th Century Ghanerao Royal Castle is a temple that
contain the idol that Meera Bai worshipped. The Kumbhalgarh Sanctuary extends
to the periphery of the Ghanerao village which is also surrounded by several
lakes. The horse safari in the region is quite the attraction.
Devigarh
is a fort turned into a hotel situated less than two hours from Udaipur. Access
to it is through the undulating territory around the city. The fort lies in
a quintessential Rajasthani village. Its exterior remains untouched. But within,
the decor has been designed to accommodate 22 suites each covering 750sq.ft
of space and seven tents for the more adventurous. There are 14 floors packed
with all the modern conveniences. There is a dining area in every suite and
most suites have balconies. Some have private gardens and dressing rooms as
well.
Dungarpur
is a 13th century city situated three and a half hours away from Udaipur, centered
around a lake and is well known for the Udai Bilas Palace, the residence of
the Mewar Royal Family, now turned into a hotel. The palace features intricately
sculpted pillars and panels, ornate balconies and arches.
MountAbu
is the highest point in the Aravalli Range (1,200 metres above sea level). The
only hill resort of Rajasthan, it is built around a lake and is surrounded by
forested hills. According to a legend, the town derives its name from Arbuda,
a serpent who descended to the spot to rescue Shiva's Bull-Nandi. Mount Abu
is also known for its Dilwara temples. It is a Jain place of pilgrimage and
boasts some of the finest marble carvings in Rajasthan. This hill station offers
visitors boating on the Nakki Lake and thrilling rides in an amusement park
situated on Raj Bhawan Road, opposite the Post Office.
Deogarh is a three hour drive from Udaipur. Deogarh inclines in the Aravallis
and is essentially meant for adventure-seekers and nature enthusiasts. It
has a 16 century palace called Deogarh Mahal, which was restored and fitted
with memorabilia like elephant bell lamps, beaded screens, portraits and the
like. Surrounding the palace are lakes and nature trek routes. Entertainment
is provided by Bhil dancers.
However, the piece de resistance of your visit here would be the brilliantly
carved Dilwara Jain temples, about 5 km to the north, which are among the
finest in the world. Two of the temples in the complex, the Vimal Vasahi (built
in 1031, and the oldest) and Tejpal Temple (built in 1231), are especially
brilliant and leave you spell bound. The carving here is so intricate and
delicate that they appear to be made out of ivory rather than marble!
The historic hilltop fortress of Chittaurgarh, replete with heroic tales of
the Sisodia rulers, is 112 km to the east. Capital of Mewar for 800 years,
repeatedly ravaged by Muslim invaders, it epitomises Rajput values and valour.
The exploits of Rani Padmini, Rana Kumbha, Rana Sanga, Maharana Pratap, the
poet-saint Princess Meerabai and others who lived here before them, are still
recounted with pride throughout Rajasthan.
Some 90 km north of Udaipur, in a peaceful valley, is Ranakpur, one of the
five main pilgrim centres for the Jains. The main shrine in the 500-year old
temple complex (preserved in near perfect condition) is the huge Chaumukha
Temple dedicated to Adinath, the first Jain saint. It is the largest and most
complex Jain temple in India with 29 halls and 80 domes supported by 1444
ornately carved pillars, no two pillars alike. There are two other Jain temples
in the complex, and, some distance away, a Sun temple.
Kankroli, on the banks of the Rajasamand Lake, 65 km from Udaipur, is the
site of a Vaishnava temple of Dwarkadhish and a beautiful Jain temple built
by Dayal Shah, which has some intricate marble carvings.
Eklingji (22 km) The complex of 108 beautifully sculpted temples dedicated
to Lord Shiva built in 734 AD. At Nagda, which lies, just 2 km away are the
10th century richly carved Sas-Bahu temples, and the splendid Jain temple
of Adbudji.
Nathdwara (48 kms north), with its temple of Shrinathji (Lord
Krishna) is a renowned pilgrim centre. It is said that in 1691, while the statue
of Shrinath (Krishna) was being moved from Mathura to escape an attack by the
fanatical Aurangzeb, the wheels of the carriage carrying the statue got stuck
in the mud. Taking this as a divine message that Lord Krishna wanted to make
that his abode, a temple was built there and the town grew around it. In the
colourful bazaar outside the temple you can find some of Nathdwara’s famed
Pichhawai cloth paintings.
Jaisamand Lake and Wildlife Sanctuary
lie some 48 km southeast of Udaipur. The exceptionally picturesque area around
one of Asia’s largest man-made lakes, built in the 17th century, with
palaces, temples, graceful cenotaphs and marble steps leading down to the water,
makes a pleasant getaway.
Dining Out
With beautiful interiors and even better exteriors Udaipur restaurants
have learnt how to cash in on the ambience, which is why it has scores of rooftop
cafes over looking its lakes. For fine dining and Rajasthani fare, the city
has some very good eating places.
Natural View Restaurant located close to Jag Niwas palace offers a great view
of the Pichola Lake and serves Indian and continental food. The sizzlers here
are good and so is the tandoori. The Roof Café Garden that overlooks
the City palace is another place with good food and a great view. A sumptuous
vegetarian thali is best had at the Vintage car Museum Restaurant and wholesome
tandoori fare at Shilpi. If you want to try something more exotic like Thai,
Lebanese, Mexican or Israeli cuisine then take a half an hour drive away from
Udaipur towards the Devigarh restaurant.
Lily Pond at Lake Palace, Lake Pichola is where you can dine under the stars
on the best Continental fare that the city has to offer. Sunset Terrace, at
Fateh Prakash Palace, City palace is an outdoor terrace restaurant overlooking
the lake. It serves authentic Rajasthani fare.
Suramahal and Udaimahal Udaivilas, are twin restaurants at Haridasji Magri
with, as its name suggests has a day and night theme. The 'day' restaurant
serves international fare while the 'night' restaurant serves Rajasthani fare.
Padmini, at grand Laxmi Vilas Palace, Fatehsagar Road is very decorative and
its chefs serve good Rajasthani food. The thali here is recommended.
Roof Top Restaurant, at Jagat Niwas Palace, serves delicious fish food and
offers a good view from its balconies.
Shopping
If you are an ethnic buff then Udaipur will give you the kind of shopping experience
you will cherish. The city shops have everything from wooden toys, attractive
puppets, Pichwai paintings and contemporary art to miniatures, marble and metal
handicrafts, Jewellery, Fabric, Carpets & Rugs, bangles , bedspreads, lehriya
saris .the list is endless.
The two shopping complexes worth visiting in Udaipur include Rajasthali- the
Rajasthan Government fixed price textile and handicraft emporium and Sadhna
- an outlet for fixed-price textiles of Sheva Mandir an NGO. Other important
shopping places in Udaipur include Bapu Bazaar, City Market, Chetak Circle and
Hathipole. When shopping at these places you must bargain over the prices quoted.
You can pick up Rajasthani silver from the market near Clock Tower, or joothis,
camel leather products, souvenirs and handicraft at Hathipole. The City Palace
Complex and the Jagdish Temple area have shops selling an abundance of handicrafts
and souvenirs.
Bapu Bazaar is where you will find readymade garments, jewelry, home products
and tailors as well. A dozen tailor shops line the street and while you vacation
in Udaipur, get measured for an outfit and take home the finished product.
The Khadi Gram Udyog has handloom clothes and textiles. Kala Niketan has beautiful
saris. Sadriwala and MansiPlaza has ready made clothes.
The Nathdwara village is where you will find exotically sculpted or crafted
idols of gods and goddess in terracotta, stone and metal. The Shilpgram Crafts
half an hour away from the main city is where you can pick up pottery, terracotta
work, idols of gods and goddesses, traditional musical instruments, rogar
work, woodwork, tapestries, mats, pouches and even furniture.
Visiting
The summers are very hot and winters are very cold but the temperature doesn't
get high. So the best season is to visit Udaipur is in between of October to
April.
How to get there
By Air :Maharana Pratap Airport is 21 km from the city. Daily
flights connect Udaipur to Jaipur, Jodhpur, Mumbai, Aurangabad and Delhi. Taxis
and buses can both be used to cover the 40-minute journey from the airport to
the city.
By Train : There are rail connections to Delhi, Ahmedabad,
Jaipur, Ajmer and Chittaurgarh and from there to all parts of India.
By Road : Wide network of bus services connects Udaipur to
major to several destinations. Important distances – Agra – 630
km, Ahmedabad – 262 km, Jaipur – 406 km, Jodhpur – 275 km,
Mount Abu – 185 km. Rent a car, share a cab, and use a bus: take your
pick.