Frazzled and paced out with a hectic lifestyle?
Arrive in the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan to its pure, pure air and unblemished
habitat fiercely protected by its people. Monasteries with ancient sanctum sanctorum
alive with legends of the past; unfrequented trekking trails that take you deep
into the valleys; people who are happy walking the path of their ancestors -
these are just wee glimpses into your rejuvenation experience. The country isn’t
promoting tourism on a big scale and you will not be particularly seduced by
its amenities. If you can visualize your visit as a privilege peek at pristine
and protected land, you’ve got the essence!
Bhutan lies west of the Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh and east of Nepal.
Thimpu, the capital, is at an altitude of 7700 feet, a small charming city in
the heart of the Himalayas. Modernisation is strictly monitored and buildings
must be made in the traditional Bhutanese style and cannot exceed a Specified
height. In fact, the first and the only traffic light was installed near a chorten
(a small Buddhist temple) but was later removed upon the order of the king as
not suitable to the environs of Thimpu
History
Documented history of Bhutan begins with the 8th century when Guru Padmasambhava,
popularly known as Guru Rimpoché, came from Tibet and spread the Buddhist
faith throughout Bhutan. He is the most important figure of the country’s
history and is said to have had miraculous powers. He preserved his teachings
and wisdom in “termas” (hidden treasures) to be found later by enlightened
followers known as “tertons”. Pema Lingpa was the most renowned
terton who found texts that detailed the religious dances and art of Guru Rimpoche
that are now part of Bhutan’s living heritage.
Numerous clans and families ruled over bits of Bhutan and quarreled among
themselves and with Tibet until the 16th century when Ngawang Namgyal established
himself as the religious ruler of the country. He unified Bhutan then called
“Druk Yul”, or Land of the Dragon. The political administration
he established lasted up to the 20th century. His death in 1705 was followed
by 200 years of political infighting. In 1907, Bhutan’s chiefs and principal
lamas (monks) voted unanimously to put Ugyen Wangchuk on the throne. Thus
began the Wangchuk dynasty that rules till today.
In 1947, India gained her independence from British rule and recognised Bhutan
as a sovereign country. When China took over control of Tibet, Bhutan’s
policy of total isolation was in quandary before the country was formally
admitted to the United Nations in 1971. The present monarch, King Jigme Singye
Wangchuk, ascended the throne in 1974 and the international media were admitted
into the country for the first time. Traditional methods of governance were
changed in the major political reforms of 1998. The Council of Ministers had
to stand for election and people voted to put them in power for a term of
five years.
Places to See
Memorial Chorten
This is the stupa built in 1974 in the memory of Bhutan's third King, Late
His Majesty, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, regarded as the father of modern
Bhutan. The paintings and statues inside the monument provide a deep insight
into Buddhist philosophy.
Tashichho Dzong
Known by another name as “fortress of the glorious religion",
the Dzong was initially erected in 1641 and rebuilt by King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck
in 1965. Tashichhodzong houses the main secretariat building and the central
monk body. It is open to visitors during Thimphu Tshechu and when the monk
body moves to warmer Punakha in the winter months.
Semtokha Dzong
Located at five miles from Thimphu, on a lofty ridge stands Simtokha Dzong,
built in 1627 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. It is the oldest fortress of the
kingdom, now housing the School for Buddhist studies.
National Library
The history of Bhutan lies imprinted in archaic texts which are preserved at
the National Library. Besides thousands of manuscripts and ancient texts, the
library also has modern academic books and printing blocks for prayer flags.
Painting School
This School teaches the techniques of traditional paintings. One can actually
see students at work producing intricate design on cloth.
Traditional Medicine Institute
In Bhutan, equal emphasis is given to both allopathic and traditional medicines.
The rich herbal medicines abundant in Kingdom are prepared here. The Institute
also imparts the art of herbal medicines to would be practitioners.
Handicrafts Emporium
The several Handicrafts Emporiums in town provide the perfect places to buy
souvenirs. They have wide assortment of beautifully hand-woven and crafted
products.
Folk Heritage Museum
A 19th century three-storey traditional rammed mud and timber house in Kawajangsa,
Thimphu, has been reborn as a folk heritage museum to document traditional
Bhutanese lifestyle and values. The design and the form of the house resemble
an average household in the Wang area during that era. Apart from some renovation
to recreate the authenticity of a typical medieval house, the original design
and architecture has been maintained. The aged structure also demonstrates
the durability of local building materials. A comprehensive collection of
clothes, furniture, crafts, tools and farming implements centered on agriculture
and animal husbandry depict the main sources of lively hood for rural households.
Other items portray religious practices, sports and leisure activities. The
exhibits are structured according to the way space was used in rural households.
The first floor was used as a pen for livestock and displays implements ranging
from farming tools to equestrian equipment for riding, travel and transport.
The second floor was the family granary where grains were stored in containers
of various types and sizes. The family lived on the top floor. Complementing
the 19th century house are typical paddy, wheat and millet fields, a traditional
water mill (with mill stones that date back more than 150 years), traditional
style kitchen gardens and a traditional hot stone bath. Native trees and plants,
such as plants that were and are still used for making paper, threads to weave
cloth, traditional medicines and dyes, are also represented. The museum was
inaugurated by the museum’s founder and patron, Her Majesty the Queen
Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck
Weekend Market
Every Saturday and Sunday most of the Thimphu's scant population and many
valley duelers congregate on the banks of the river where the weekend market
is held. It provides an insight into the village economy where farmers from
nearby areas converge to sell their products. It makes an interesting for
an opportunity to mix with the local people.
Zangtho Pelri Lhakhang
This chapel was built in 1990s by Dasho Aku Tongmi, a musician who composed
Bhutan's national anthem. The country's tallest lhakhang, it is replica of
Guru Rimpoche's celestial abode
Trekking
is the best way to discover Bhutan’s verdant valleys, crystal clear lakes,
rugged mountainside and unspoilt habitat. The trails aren’t very clearly
marked and personal trekking equipment such as sleeping bags isn’t available.
Trek operators will provide you guides, maps and kitchen paraphernalia. Please
be kind enough to leave the surroundings exactly as it was.
Excursion
Tango Temple
Initially built by Gyalwa Lhanampa in 12th century and later built into its
present form by “Divine Madman” Lama Drukpa Kuenley in 15th century. In the
18th century, the eighth Desi Tenzin Rabgye built a three storey tower and several
other surrounding buildings. Presently, it serves as a monastic school for Buddhist
studies. It is about 12 km drive from Thimphu and takes about an hour’s hike
to reach the temple from the road end.
Cheri Temple
The same road end to Tango Temple shares the junction route to Cheri Temple.
The trail starts by crossing over a traditional wooden bridge and from there
it is about an hour and half steep climb to the temple. This temple was founded
by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel in 1620. The ashes of Zhabdrung’s father are preserved
in a silver stupa inside the temple.
Phajoding Monastery
It is located at an altitude of 3,700 metres, a commanding height overlooking
the Thimphu valley. It is a steep climb through mixed conifer forest that takes
about three and half hours up and two hours return. There are several little
retreat houses and temples that spread out around the monastery.
Punakha
Only a one hour drive from Thimphu, it offers visitors their first glimpse of
the Eastern Himalayan range. The best time to reach Dochu La is dawn when the
clouds are thin and the rhododendrons are in season. Then the early morning
sun casts breathtaking light on the distant mountains framed in shades of red
from the brilliant flowers. The road to Punakha branches off left and curls
its way down the valley to the relative lowlands of the Punakha Valley. The
town of Punakha does not hold many attractions apart from the glorious Punakha
Dzong which dominates the valley floor and the Chimmi Lhakhang.
Wangduephodrang (3hrs)
Wangduephodrang is a dzongkhag (district), of central Bhutan. This is also the
name of the dzong (built in 1638) which dominates the district, and the name
of the small market town outside the gates of the dzong. The name is said to
have been given by the Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal who was searching for the best
location for a dzong to prevent incursions from the south. At the chosen spot
the Shabdrung encountered a boy named Wangdi playing beside the river and hence
named the dzong "Wangdi's Palace". Wangduephodrang is bordered by Dagana and
Tsirang dzongkhags to the south, Tongsa dzongkhag to the east, Thimphu and Punakha
dzongkhag to the west, and Gasa dzongkhag and a small section of border with
Tibet to the north.
Bumthang (212 kms, 8 Hrs)
The Bumthang valley lies at an altitude of 2600 metres. This valley is the religious
heartland of Bhutan and home to some of the oldest Buddhist temples. Tales of
Guru Padmasambhava and his reincarnates Known as Lingpas, still linger around
Bumthang. Legend has it that when the Lamas assembled to decide on a site for
Jakar Dzong, a big white bird rose suddenly in the air and settled on a spur
of the hill and it was here that `Castle of the white bird` was built. The building
itself is surrounded with an impressive wall approximately one mile in circumference,
in its centre a tower soars nearly 150 feet into the air.
What to see in Bumthang
Jambey Lhakhang
This monastery was built in the 7th century by the Tibetan king, Songtsen Gampo.
It is one of 108 monasteries which he built to subdue evil spirits in the Himalayan
region. Its present architectural appearance dates from the early 20th century.
Kurje Lhakhang
Located further along the valley, Kurje Lhakhang comprises three temples. The
one on the right was built in 1652 against the rock face where Guru Padmasambhava
meditated in the 8th century. The middle temple is built on the site of a cave
containing a rock with the imprint of the Guru’s body, and is therefore
considered to be the most holy. The temple on the left was built in the 1990s
by H.M. Ashi Kesang, the Queen Mother. These three temples are surrounded by
108 chorten walls.
Tamshing Lhakhang
Located across the river from Kurje Lhakhang, this temple was founded in 1501
by Terton Pema Lingpa, a re-incarnation of Guru Padmasambhava. There are very
old religious paintings around the inner walls of the temple, which was restored
at the end of the 19th century.
Jakar Dzong
Constructed in 1549 by the great grandfather of the first Shabdrung, the dzong
was initially built as a monastery. It was upgraded in 1646, after the Shabdrung
had firmly established his power.
Jakar Dzong is now used as the administrative center for Bumthang valley, and
also houses the regional monk body.
Dining Out
Thimphu is the heaven for buffet lovers. Most of the good restaurants are in
the hotels and cuisine is mainly vegetarian. Dartsi (cow's milk cheese) and
Ema dartsi (red chillies cooked in melted cheese) are some of the favourite
cuisine items in Thimphu. Remember that red chilly is going to be the most important
ingredient in any dish in Thimphu and if you don't like chilly ask the staff
to decrease the amount to an acceptable amount.
Shopping
“Bhutia” markets are colourful heaps of shawls, sweaters, coats
and trinkets of turquoise and coral. The women in their traditional attire
(“bakus”) may not speak your language but will help you make the
right choice. The Handicraft Emporium in the main street in Thimpu sells an
assortment of hand-woven goods and handicrafts. You can order silver and gold
ornaments to your taste at the Thimpu Valley and they will specially craft
it for you. Thangka paintings and Bhutanese stamps make great souvenirs. Philatelists
around the world prize these stamps, which are printed on silk and metal foil.
Some stamps even have a 3D effect. Remember that it's illegal to take out
any antiques from Bhutan, so consult your guide before buying any. Shopping
hours are 0900-2000 Monday to Sunday with Tuesday as the weekly holiday.
Visiting
Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit Bhutan, particularly the
months of October and November, when the skies are clear and you can get stunning
views of the mountain peaks. For those who wish to catch a Bhutanese festival,
especially the masked dance of the monks, the months to be there are October
and March.
Special Events and Festivals
Bhutan is an agrarian society and most of its festivals celebrate sowing
and reaping of the crop. “Tshechu” is celebrated all over Bhutan
at the end of the harvest season. The highlight of this religious event is
the mask dance performed by the monks. In special costumes and headgear, the
monks dance according to tradition – any alteration of the steps is
seen as sacrilegious.
How to get there
By Air : The airport is at Paro. Delhi, Calcutta (India),
Kathmandu (Nepal), Bangkok (Thailand) and Dacca (Bangladesh) have flights to
Bhutan operated by the national carrier. There is no option of taking any other
airline.
By Train : Bhutan has no railroad.
By Road : You can drive or take the bus from India to Bhutan
via the border town of Phuntsholing.
