The northern most state of the country - Jammu
& Kashmir is certainly one of the most beautiful ones in the country. Divided
into three districts of the plains of Jammu, the cold deserts and barren lands
of Ladakh and the valleys and hills of Kashmir, the state offers a plethora
of sights for a traveler. Srinagar is Jammu & Kashmir's summer capital.
The sparkling Jhelum, the picturesque Dal and Nagin lakes, the gorgeous gardens
and the surrounding forested mountains are just some of the things that make
Srinagar a place of truly indescribable beauty. Its location and climate, the
splendours and colours of the changing seasons, all add to its loveliness. Srinagar
and its surroundings are home to unparalleled virgin landscapes that make any
travel experience in this region memorable, revitalising and completely matchless.
History
Srinagar has been at the centre of the Kashmir turbulence. But it was not always
so. Its name was derived from the old name 'Suryanagar' (The city of Surya or
the Sun God). According to a popular legend, which is mentioned in Kalhana's
Rajtaringini, Kashmir valley was a vast lake. Kashyap Rishi drained out the
water and made it habitable. Hieun-tsang the famous Chinese traveller visited
Srinagar in the 7th Century A.D. and has described its beauty in his memoirs.
According to Sir Aurel Stein the famous interpretor of Kalhana the chronicler
of 12th century Kashmir, the city of Srinagar had big market and mansions made
of wood touching the clouds. The Mughals practically made it their summer capital.
Later, the British took it over and gave Gulab Singh of the royal family of
Kashmir the status of an independent ruler. Over the years, the city saw upheavals
and a process of change, from a royal retreat to the hotbed of political activity.
In the last decade of the 20th century, Srinagar has been racked by some of
the worst incidents of violence and killing that the country has witnessed.
Several thousand lives have been lost, the once overflowing hotels and streets
lie empty, the magnificent Dal Lake is choked up and the people devastated.
This human tragedy wrought by incessant conflict between India and Pakistan,
has made hell out of what was once described as paradise on earth.
Places to See
Dal Lake
Srinagar’s pride and everyone’s dream! The lake is not just a water
body, but rather like a city in itself. The houseboat and shikara communities
have permanent homes on the lake, complete with patches floating vegetable and
lotus gardens. Doctors, tailors, bakers, and grocers dot the edges of the lake
in compact wooden homes. Quite unbelievable! The Dal stretches over 5 km and
is split into Gagri Dal, Lokut Dal and Bod Dal by a series of causeways. The
main causeway across the lake carries the pipeline for Srinagar's water supply.
Nagin Lake
This deep-blue lake encircled by towering trees offers all the privacy and
calm that you could ask for. No wonder it’s a hit with honeymooners.
You can rent boats from the camping site here to simply row around the lake
or to look for a houseboat. The causeways are a convenient route for walkers
and bicyclists to get to their destination without having to worry about traffic
or shikaras.
Mughal Gardens and Palaces
The Mughal emperors lasting gift to this land is the delightful gardens. With
stepped terraces, gurgling watercourses, stone pavilions, and rows of neat
shrubs and flowering plants, this was their vision of the Garden of Heaven.
The sky-skimming chinars are a recurring motif of these gardens. If not pruned,
these can grow to a height of 100 ft. With its brown five-lobed leaves and
flowers on double stalks, the tree is a symbol of Kashmiri culture. Interestingly,
the large hollow trunks of the chinar have served as meditating spots for
spiritual leaders and philosophers over the ages.
Shalimar Bagh
A tribute of love from Emperor Jehangir to his wife Nur Jahan, Shalimar Bagh
is also known as the Garden of Love. This is where the emperor and his queen
enjoyed moments of solitude. There is a pavilion made of black stone in the
middle of a tank, supported by black marble fluted pillars. This was used
as a banquet hall. The entire garden is structured around four terraces with
an ancient but still operable system of water channels passing through them.
A sound and light show is put on here every evening during the May to October
tourist season.
Nishat Bagh
The Nishat Bagh, built by Empress Nur Jahan's brother, Asaf Ali has a unique
theme: its 12 terraces represent the 12 signs of the zodiac, which descend
gradually and seem to almost merge into the Dal Lake. Its flowerbeds, trees,
fountains, pavilions and gazebos make it the prettiest and the most crowded
of the all the gardens.
Chasma Shahi
Small certainly is beautiful! The smallest of Srinagar's Mughal gardens, it
has only three terraces, in addition to a natural spring enclosed in a stone
pavilion. The waters of the spring are believed to have medicinal properties.
And right through his prime ministership, Jawaharlal Nehru ensured he drank
only this water, as all others were bitter compared to this nectar.
Parimahal
Pari Mahal, the Palace of the Fairies, is an ancient Sufi centre, just a stone’s
throw away from the Chasma Shahi Garden. You can easily approach Parimahal
via the garden. Graceful arched terraces are its striking feature. This too
has a sound and light show every evening between May and October.
Excursion
Tulla Mulla and Kheer Bhavani
A unique temple just 25 km from Srinagar, it is dedicated to Goddess Raginia,
believed to be another form of Durga. Another important point of worship is
the temple of Sharika Devi, also a form of Durga. The goddess is also lovingly
referred to as Kheer Bhavani because of the thousands of devotees who offer
milk and kheer to the sacred spring here. Amazingly, the locals here relate
instances of the spring turning black to warn of disasters. Hiring a cab is
the best way to get to these places.
Gulmarg
Perched up in the snowy mountains amidst tall pines and gigantic firs, its
slopes carpeted with daisies, buttercups and blue bells, Gulmarg is love,
long and eternal! It is 51 km from Srinagar, and tremendously popular for
the skiing, skating and tobogganing opportunities it offers. It also has a
2,000 m-long ropeway and the highest golf course in the world.
Pahalgam
About 95 km east of Srinagar, Pahalgam has catapulted from being a remote,
sleepy village to one of the star attractions of Kashmir. Sitting on the banks
of the Lidder and Sheshnag streams and shaded by lofty deodars, firs, pines,
and junipers, it offers trekking, horse riding and golfing. It also serves
as the starting point for the Amarnath Yatra. There are buses as well as taxis
to take you to Pahalgam. J&K TDC runs hotels which are clean and comfy.
Sonamarg
Drive through 84 km of picture-postcard towns and the historic Sindhu River
to reach the breathtakingly beautiful Sonamarg. Ponies can be hired for the
trip up to Thajiwas Glacier, a major attraction during the summer months.
Amarnath Yatra
An incredible example of immense human faith and man’s willingness to
test himself to the utmost in order to reach God. Like most other temples
in Srinagar, the Amarnath Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. However, this
particular temple evokes intense devotion from people across the world. Situated
in a narrow gorge at the farther end of Lidder Valley, Amarnathji stands at
3,888 m and is 45 km from Pahalgam and 141 km from Srinagar. The image of
Shiva is, incredibly, an ice-stalagmite. Flanking the main idol on either
sides are two more ice-lingas: that of Parvati and their son Ganesh.
If you wish to have darshan of the Lord, then register yourself with the
State Government after ads are issued in the national dailies. And start walking
so your legs are strong enough to take you through the journey. All arrangements
are made by J&K TDC.
Wullar Lake
The largest fresh-water lake in India is 60 kms from Srinagar. Fed by the
Jhelum River, the lake is spread over a 125 km expanse. Swift flowing winds
keep the water of the lake turbulent and shimmering in sunlight. Wullar is
the habitat for several migratory and indigenous bird species.
Dining Out
Like when traveling in any other part of the world, when in Srinagar,
one should not miss the local cuisine of Kashmir. The specialty is a 36-course
banquet generally served in weddings and celebrations called the Wazwan. The
Wazwan, like the regular Kashmiri simple meal is replete and rich in spices
- cinnamon, cardamom, saffron, cloves. Rice is the main preparation in any Kashmiri
meal. The Wazwan, is a meat eater's delight, vegetarian items are minimal. Mutton,
chicken and fish are the main preparations and the meal is generally finished
off with Kahva or green tea.
To taste authentic Wazwan, step into Mughal Darbar and Ahboos Hotel on Residency
Road. If you are staying in a houseboat when in Srinagar, your host will probably
prepare Wazwan for you.
There is little variety for other cuisines in Srinagar. Most hotels have good
restaurants that serve Indian, Continental and Kashmiri cuisines. Other restaurants
are mainly located on the Boulevard, Shervani (Residency) Road, Lambert Lane
and Lal Chowk.
Tao Café Caffie Linz on Residency Road and Alka Salka and Hideout
are attractive and cozy garden restaurants.
For light snacking and a spread of Indian sweets drop into Modern, Bikaner Corner
and Shakti at Regal Chowk and Nathu's on the Boulevard. Jan Bakery and Sultan
Bakery are known for their patties, pastries and an assortment of Kashmiri breads
like 'sheermal' and 'baqerkhani', without which no Kashmiri breakfast is complete.
Shopping
Srinagar is a handicraft lover's paradise. From roadside trinkets to collector's
items, Srinagars traditional handicrafts cater to every taste and budget, making
it impossible to leave the town without a piece of Kashmiri handiwork. The favorites
are Kashmiri shawls and carpets, papier mache items and intricately modeled
walnut wood furniture and accessories.
While to the uninitiated tourist the prices can be quite confusing, it is to
the trained eye that the details, craft and labour that has gone into each item
is visible and hence an idea about the real cost conceivable.
Kashmiri carpets in wool and silk with their intricate Persian patterns are
known to be a lifetime investment. Woolen shawls and crewel embroidery are
famous here and are sold by the metre. There are a variety of items crafted
out of papier mache and then painted with intricate patterns - ranging from
jewellery boxes, table top items, jars, decorative items etc in every shape
and size making it the most favorite memorabilia to carry back and gift others
from the state. For those who like heavy furniture the state is known for
its traditional models made out of walnut wood and replete with carvings.
Small items like pen stands, wall hangings, mirror frames are also crafted
out of walnut wood. Dry fruits, spices and saffron are also what tourists
love to carry back from the city.
In the city Shaw Brothers and Boulevard are where you should head to for
carpets. Solomon's Mine on Lambert Lane is known for its traditional silver
jewellery. Tariq's in Polo View is ideal to check out rugs, furnishing fabric,
crewel work and chain stitch items. You can pick up your stock of dry fruits,
spices, saffron, honey etc from Amin bin Khaliq in Polo View. Asia Crafts
at the Bund is where you can go for papier mache and walnut wood items and
carpets.
Visiting
Srinagar is best experienced during the summer months from April to June when
the weather is pleasant. You can plan your visit here till October before the
onset of winter when it gets too cold to enjoy the locale and heavy snowfall
also hampers movement.
How to get there
By Air : Srinagar airport is 14 km from the city. There are
daily direct flights to Delhi, Mumbai and Jammu. Jammu and Kashmir State Road
Transport Corporation (J&KSRTC) operates special coach services between
the airport and the city.
By Train : The nearest rail head is at Jammu, which is about
300 km away. Trains connect the city to Delhi, Kolkata, Pune, Mumbai, Kanyakumari
and Ahmedabad.
By Road : Srinagar is well connected by road to Chandigarh
(630 km), Delhi (876 km), and Jammu (298 km). J&KSRTC operates express coaches
between Jammu and Srinagar and the journey takes approximately 8 hours.
