Nestled among hills, Shillong the capital of Meghalaya looks like a cluster
of red roofs from the sky. This picturesque city throbs with life from dawn
to dusk. Narrow hill roads skirted by tall pine trees are lined with cottages
made of wood. Shillong is blessed with temperate climate all year long, which
makes it an ideal holiday destination. Although modernization has taken its
toll and traffic jams are the order of the day, this is an ideal place to
unwind amidst simplicity and natural beauty.
History
Shillong was a small village until 1864, when it became the new civil station
of the Khasi and Jaintia hills. It remained the summer capital of Eastern
Bengal and Assam for many years. In 1874, on the formation of Assam as a Chief
Commissioner’s Province, it was chosen as the capital of the new administration.
An earthquake destroyed the city in 1897, necessitating its complete rebuilding.
In January 1972, Shillong became the capital of the newly formed state of
Meghalaya.
Places to See
Waterfalls
The Crinoline Falls is about 12–13 m in height and lies to the west
of the Survey of India Office. There is a swimming pool at the base of the
falls.
The Gunner’s Falls 1 is about 24–26 m in height and is near the
military establishment on the Upper Shillong road. It is about 1.6 km from
the GPO.
The Spread Eagle Falls or Sati Falls is located about a mile away from the
Polo Ground. It is a famous picnic spot.
The Sweet Falls (also called “Weitden,” in the native dialect)
is the most beautiful of all the waterfalls in Shillong. It lies about 5 km
from the Happy Valley and is about 96 m in height.
The Elephant Gait and the Elephant Falls are located near Upper Shillong.
These are beautiful sights especially in the rainy season and are favorite
picnic spots among the locals. Beyond the Elephant Falls, one can also view
the Upper and Lower Elysium Falls.
The Beadon Falls lies about 2 km from Bara Bazaar. There is a hydroelectric
powerhouse at the base of the falls. The Bishop Falls is also nearby and together
they mingle and flow into the Umiam River.
Peaks
Shillong Peak, the highest point of Shillong, is located 5 km to the south
of the city and is 1961 meters (6,433 feet) in altitude. Being the highest
peak in the district, it is often surrounded with fog. The peak itself is
not steep, but rather semi-circular like that of a crown placed on the flat
and extensive top of the Shillong Hill. The peak is accessible via the Upper
Shillong or Jowai Road.
The Sohpetbneng Peak is 1,343 m in altitude and is regarded as sacred by the
Hynfiiewtrep tribe. It is a picturesque location.
The Dingei Hill is situated near the Umiam stream. Two paths lead to this
hill from Shillong. One is the narrow tract that leads straight to the gorge
through Umiyangka village. For a height of 1,000 ft on either side of the
stream, the gradient is very steep and precipitous and makes for excellent
mountain climbing. The second route begins at Barapani on the GS Road, about
16 km from Shillong. During the upward journey, one is provided a captivating
view of the Bhoi district, which lies 300 ft below the summit of the Dingei
Hill.
The Dumpeep Peak is the highest in Swer and is 5100 feet above sea level.
The Kyllang rock lies 78 km from Shillong. The rock is a steep bare cliff
of granite, 200 m in height and rises abruptly from plain grassy downs.
Lakes
The Ward Lake is an important tourist site of Shillong. It is a horseshoe-shaped
artificial lake lying beneath the Raj Bhavan (Governor’s Residence)
and the Accountant General’s (AG) Office, with little isles and a bridge
over it. The lake abounds in fish (grass carps) and feeding the fish from
the bridge is a favorite pastime of the tourists. It is said that a Khasi
prisoner, who requested for any kind of work to get him out of his cell, initiated
its construction. The lake has a charming winding walk-a-way in the midst
of rolling flowerbeds and fairyland lighting with gradually undulating grounds,
hemmed in by lush greens. Boats are also available, while the cafeteria provides
refreshments.
Seventeen kilometers before Shillong is situated Umiam or Barapani—a
large lake formed after a hydroelectric dam was built across a stream. In
recent years, this has become an increasingly popular place for outings and
weekend visits. The Orchid Lake Resort, designed by the famous architect Charles
Correa, and constructed amongst pinewood, overlooks the lake. There are facilities
for water sports here: from kayaking and water skiing for the adventurous
to water cycling and simple boating for the less brave. The Orchid Lake Resort,
run by the Meghalaya Tourism Department, has pleasantly appointed rooms with
balconies, a restaurant and bar
The State Museum is located at the State Central Library complex in Laichumiere
and visitors can catch a glimpse of the heritage and lifestyle of the Khasi
tribe here. The Butterfly Museum at Riatsamthiah holds a rare collection of
butterflies and moths.
The Botanical Garden near Ward Lake has some species of flora of the region.
A better place is the Orchidarium of the Botanical Survey of India. It has
a rare collection of orchids and is a treat to the nature lover.
Near the Botanical Garden, one can find the celebrated Golf Course, called
the Gleneagles of the East. The Golf club retains the colonial touch and is
the first 18-hole golf course in Asia.
Behind the Shillong Civil Hospital, near the Pine Mount School, is the Lady
Hydari Park. It has a small museum, a small zoo, an aviary, and a deer park
among tall cedars and pines.
In front of St. Edmund’s College, one can visit the fruit garden, maintained
by the Department of Agriculture. During spring, one can see the trees in
full bloom. There are many reservoirs filled with natural spring water that
have the dual purpose of watering the gardens and functioning as a nursery—known
as “Fishdale”—for the raising and breeding of fish, notably
hill-trout and carps.
Shillong is also famous for its churches. The most beautiful church is that
of the Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians. Directly below the hill is the
Grotto Church. The All Saints Church opposite the State Central Library is
an attractive structure made out of wood.
Excursion
Cherrapunji Village
About 56 km from Shillong is Cherrapunji village (East Khasi Hills district),
now called Sohra. Located on the Shillong plateau about 55 km southwest of
Shillong, Cherrapunji and Mausynram (another village nearby) are reputed to
be the wettest places in the world. The heavy rains here often swell the waters
of the Nohsngithiang waterfall. The town is famous for its limestone caves
and orange honey. It has the oldest Presbyterian Church. Krem Mawmluh is a
4.5-km-long cave near Cherrapunji.
A little further down the road to limestone caves, there is a graveyard where
British missionaries and their close relatives lie buried. The visitors are
awed by a series of giant pillars or megaliths that have been erected near
a stream. Such megaliths are to be seen in different parts of the Khasi and
Jaintia Hills and are usually erected to commemorate great deeds or to honor
dead chieftains. Accommodation is available at the Circuit House.
Nartiang
The summer capital of the Jaintia kings, Nartiang, is about 65 km east of
Shillong. There is a park of megaliths, some of which are as high as 8m. A
500-year-old temple of Durga is another attraction at Nartiang. En route Nartiang,
64 km from Shillong, is the small lake of Thadlaskein. It is a beautiful picnic
spot.
Nongkrem
About 13 km from Shillong is the village of Nongkrem. It is the seat of the
Syiem of Nongkrem, whose estate extends up to Shillong. The traditional Nongkrem
Dance festival is held here around autumn and draws large crowds of visitors.
Jakrem
Sixty-four kilometers from Shillong is Jakrem, a popular health resort having
hot springs of sulfur water, believed to have curative medicinal properties.
Dawki
A border town, 96 km from Shillong, provides a glimpse of Bangladesh. The
colorful annual boat race during spring at the Umgot River is an added attraction.
Ranikor
At a distance of 140 km from Shillong is Ranikor, an angler's paradise containing
a huge population of carp and mahseers.
Jowai
Is a popular and prosperous town situated on a beautiful plateau 1,500 m above
sea level. Three sides of this plateau slope sharply down to the Hai River
and contiguous areas are rich in coal deposits. It is also an important station
on the route to Silchar and Agartala.
Dining Out
There aren’t too may choices of cuisine, though Chinese food
is widely available. The best option is to stick to the hotel you are staying
in. The south Indian "dosa" and "idli", north Indian "chola"
and "bhatura" and Indian snacks are available in small restaurants
in the Police Bazaar area. For authentic local cuisine, venture out to Mawkhar
Main Road and eat at the small-unnamed shacks.
Shopping
The main shopping areas are Police Bazaar, Bara Bazaar and Laitumukhrah. On
Iewduh, the first day of the eight-day long Khasi week, people from all over
eastern Meghalaya come to sell their products here. In the centre of Police
Bazar, on the corner of Kacheri road, there are shops selling finely woven
baskets of all sizes. For hand-woven shawls, handicrafts, orange flower honey
and cane work, one can visit the various emporia like Meghalaya Handicrafts,
Khadi Gramodyog and Purbashree.
Visiting
Shillong is subject to vagaries of the monsoon. The monsoons arrive in June
and it rains almost until the end of August. The climate is hot and humid
during summers but quite cold during winters. October-November and March-April
are the best months to visit Shillong.
How to get there
By Air : Borjhar Airport in Guwahati, Assam, is the nearest
airport. You can get to Shillong in four hours from there in a hired taxi
or a chartered bus.
By Train : There are no railway lines inside Meghalaya. The
nearest railhead is Guwahati, 128 km from Shillong. Regular buses and taxis
ply to Shillong. It takes about 4 hrs from Guwahati Railway Station to Shillong.
By Road : The drive from Guwahati to Shillong takes 4 hours
and Silchar to Shillong 9 hours. Roads are well maintained though narrow in
certain parts. Guwahati is connected by National Highway 40 while Silchar
is via National Highway 44.
