Lucknow - the old capital of the nawabs of Awadh
where culture, courtesy and courtly lifestyle reigned supreme. Life in Lucknow
was characterised by an old world charm with warmth, hospitality and a genteel
formality inherent in every facet of its people. The city saw its most glorious
days under the Nawabs when it became a great centre for literature, music, dance,
arts and crafts. Contemporary Lucknow is a far cry from the elegance and class
of the old Awadh; now, the city is very much a reflection of modern India with
unplanned development, crowded streets and polluted air. But the discerning
traveller can still glimpse of the aura of those heady days in the old monuments,
ruins and inner city lanes and alleyways.
History
The city traces its origin to the ancient Suryavanshi Dynasty and derives its
name from Lakshmana (the brother of Lord Rama). The city came to the political
forefront when Mughal king Muhammad Shah appointed Mohammed Amir Saadat Khan,
a Persian adventurer of noble lineage, to the viceroyalty of the area known
as Awadh in 1732. Saadat Khan laid the foundation of Nawab Wazir, a dynasty
that ushered in cultural and architectural revolution in the hitherto little-known
place.
In 1755, the fourth nawab, Asaf-ud-Daula transferred the capital of Awadh
from Faizabad to Lucknow. Under him and his successors, Lucknow flowered as
never before and became the cultural nerve centre of northern India. It was
not only art and architecture; the city occupied a prominent place in fields
of poetry, music and dance.
In 1854, the British, under Lord Dalhousie, attacked Lucknow. An unconcerned
Nawab Wajid Ali Shah played chess while British troops entered and occupied
the city. It saw bloody battles during the First War of Independence in 1857;
the huge mausoleums of the Nawabs and the ruins of the Residency are witnesses
to one of the most remarkable episodes in the Indian struggle for independence.
In the post Independence era, the city became the capital of Uttar Pradesh.
Today, it is abuzz with activities political, social, and cultural.
Places to See
Asafi Imambara and Rumi Darwaza
The Bara Imambara as it is popularly known was built in 1784 AD by Nawab
Asaf-ud-Daula. Its central hall is believed to be the largest vaulted chamber
in the world. Taking the help of an authorized guide to understand and see
this place is a good option. On the upper floors are interesting labyrinths,
and within the Imambara is the grand Asafi Mosque. Outside, the Rumi Darwaza,
a colossal, ornate gateway, is said to be a facsimile of one of the gates
of Constantinople.
Chota Imambara or Palace of Lights
Also known as the Husainabad Imambara, it was constructed by Mohammed Ali
Shah in 1837. It is believed to be the mausoleum of Mohammed Ali Shah himself.
It is called the Palace of Lights because of its chandeliers that come alive
during the Muslim festival of Muharram. The Imambara has a golden dome, a
silver throne and gold-edged mirrors. Other interesting monuments around the
Chota Imambara are the dargah (shrine) of the Sufi saint Hazrat Abbas and
the tomb of the Sufi saint Ibrahim Chisti's son.
Shahnajaf Imambara
The smallest of the three imambaras was built by Ghazi-ud-din Haider on the
banks of the Gomti River and is a copy of the mausoleum of Hazrat Ali at Najaf
in Iraq.
Residency
This red brick building came to the centrestage during the Revolt of 1857
as 3,000 British men, women and children took shelter here. They fought Indian
sepoys until Sir Colin Campbell defeated the Indian forces. The Residency
now houses government offices and a museum. Within the complex are the graves
of the British soldiers who died fighting the Indian troops. Other monuments
within the complex are tombs of first Nawab of Awadh Sadat Ali Khan and the
observatory built for the British astronomer Col. Wilcox
State Museum
Located in the zoological gardens' precincts, it houses a large collection
of archaeological and other items related to the city and the region. The
exhibits also include an Egyptian mummy. Tel: 2206158. Timings are 10 am to
5 pm; closed on Monday;
Kaisarbagh Folk Art Museum
The museum has an exquisite collection of contemporary art from Uttar Pradesh.
Mohammad Ali Shah Art Gallery
Near the Kaiserbagh Folk Art Museum, it exhibits old photographs and portraits
of the Nawabs. Visitors are welcome 8 am to 5 pm.
Jami Masjid
The largest mosque of Lucknow, it was begun by Mohammed Shah and completed
by his wife after her husband’s death in the 1840s. There are wonderful
paintings on the ceilings.
Moti Mahal
Also called Palace of Pearls, this is among the three beautiful buildings
on the fringes of the River Gomti. It was used by the Nawabs to view birds
in flight.
Qaiser Bagh Palace
Wajid Ali Shah’s contribution to Lucknow was the Qaiser Bagh Palace
built in 1850, which he wanted to be promoted as the eighth wonder of the
world!
Amusement Parks
Mogli Water Park (45 km from Lucknow): The park is near the Nawabganj Bird
Sanctuary Tel: (923) 248069, 9838013490. The park has three swimming pools
(with rides and slides) boating on the lake, jogging track, camel rides, a
restaurant and an equipment store. Open: 11 am to 6.30 pm. Entry: Rs. 75 per
adult, Rs. 50 per child. Banned: Liquor; food from outside; single males or
groups of men only.
Rumi Darwaza or Turkish Gate
Also built as part of famine relief work, it is said to be a facsimile of one
of the gates of Constantinople. It’s a towering 60-ft high structure!
Excursion
Kukrail Reserve Forest
Pristine and beautiful, the Forest Department houses a deer park and a crocodile
nursery.
Nawabganj Bird Sanctuary
A haven for bird watchers during winters, when migratory birds from Central
Asia flock here. Located 43 km from Lucknow, you can see the Siberian crane,
pintain, common teal, pochard, shoveler, purple moorhen, and parakeet. The
best season to be here is between October and March.
Dudhwa National Park
Situated 238 km from Lucknow in the North Lakhimpur-Kheri District, the park's
star attraction is the Bengal Tiger. About 100 tigers are believed to still
roam this Terai region. Besides, the thick sal forests and grassy lowlands
of the park are home to leopards, elephants, bears, muntjacs, crocodiles,
and spotted deer. The Sarda River meanders along the border of Dudhwa and
the Neora and Sohel rivers run through the park creating slushy marshlands
frequented by swamp deer.
Tomb of Syed Haji Waris Ali Shah
Revered by the Hindus and the Muslims equally, this place of worship is just
25 km from Lucknow. Also known as Deva Sharif, the annual Urs in (October/November)
is a good time to visit the tomb.
Naimisharanya-Misrikh
A temple complex dedicated to several gods and goddesses. Its highlights are
the shrines for Goddess Lalita and Hanuman, Dadhichi Kund (pond) and Vyas
Gaddi (seat). It is 94 km from the city.
Ayodhya
About 134 km from Lucknow and on the bank of River Saryu, Ayodhya is famous
for temples dedicated to Rama and other deities. It came into limelight after
riots that followed the demolition of the Babari Mosque here.
Faizabad
This was the capital of the Awadh rulers till Nawab Asaf-ud-daula shifted
it to Lucknow. Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula built the town’s fort in 1764. The
tomb of Bahu Begum, the widow of Shuja-ud-daula, exquisitely built in white
marble is a must visit. Some 124 km away from Lucknow, the city has excellent
road and rail connectivity. There are plenty of modest accommodations.
Bareilly
Known countrywide for its iron industry and zari (embroidery in golden thread)
work, it houses 17th century mosques and churches. Founded by the Barel Deo
brothers in 1537, Bareilly was handed over to the British in 1801. The city
has plenty of accommodation on Station Road. An important railway junction,
trains from cities like Dehradun, Delhi and Varanasi stop here.
Dining Out
Popular as the City of Nawabs and Kababs, Lucknow is about biryanis, salans,
dal goshts cooked from the finest and most exotic of ingredients. This is
also the city that gifted to the world the dum pukht (slow, covered cooking)
cuisine. Lucknow has a variety of restaurants, from the middle-range ones
mainly in the Hazratganj area to those within the five-star hotels. Besides
the special Awadhi food, there are also coffee shops and restaurants serving
international cuisine.
Gulfam (Hotel Clarks Awadh, 8 Mahatma Gandhi Marg.)- Oudhyana (Taj Mahal
Hotel, Vipin Khand, Gomtinagar.) - Nawabeen (Hotel Gomti, Sapru Marg.)- Vyanjan
Restaurant, (Vinay Palace, 10 Ashok Marg.) - Kakis Restaurant (B-2011, Indira
Nagar.)- Chung Fa (S-7, Gole Market, Mahanagar.)
Do hit the streets of Lucknow for a gastronomic adventure. The Chowk area
is packed with joints selling something irresistible. For kababs, there’s
no place like Tunde's at Akbari Gate. Mohammad Idris in the Firangi Mahal
Pul area serves delectable biryanis. For creamy rabri and other sinful desserts,
who better than Prem Sweets.
Shopping
Think Lucknow! Think chikan work. The famous shadow embroidery called chikan
work is Lucknow's style statement! Want to splurge? Walk up the shops at Janpath
Market. They have a good collection but the prices are lower at Aminabad and
the Chowk.
If it’s about being modern and trendy then Hazratganj, at the centre
of the city, with wide avenues and large shops is the ideal spot where you
will find any and every thing. But if you wish to catch true spirit of Lucknow
then go to the Chowk or Aminabad. Narrow lanes, with matchbox like shops selling
itr (perfume made in the traditional way from essential oils), jhaalar (colourful
borders for dupattas), delicious kebabs, rumali rotis, kites. it is an amazing
collection of knick-knacks. These two places are the main bazaars of the city
and are fascinating places to wander through.- Modern Silk House, 48, Hazratganj-
Saree Bhawan, 73, Hazratganj- Khiamal Sons, 68, Hazratganj
Visiting
The best season to visit Lucknow is October to March. The weather is pleasant
and going round the sights is much easier. Lucknow hosts the National Kite
flying competition a day after diwali (Hindu festival of lights) in October
– November. Between 25th November and 5th December is a ten-day cultural
festival. Reliving the heady days of Awadh, this festival showcases several
events including classical music, dance, plays, boating and ekka (one-horse
carriage) races.
Special Event
Lucknow Mahotsav
The rich culture of Lucknow comes alive during the festival held every year
from November 25 to December 5 at Lakshman Mela Ground, MG Road. Renowned
artists enthrall the august audience who come here to enjoy the rich musical
culture which has been handed down from generations. To add to the mood of
the evening is a food festival serving avadhi food and an arts and crafts
mela. This Mahotsav is a must experience for those who understand class and
culture.
How to get there
By Air : The Amausi airport in Lucknow gets flights from Delhi,
Patna, Varanasi, Calcutta and Mumbai. From the airport you can take a taxi to
the centre of town.
By Train : Lucknow is a major junction of the Northern Railways,
and well connected with all major cities in the country. The Charbagh Railway
Station (0522 – 259932) has a computerised reservation counter. It is
about 4 kms from Hazratganj. The City Railway station is in the Husainabad area,
near most historical sites.
By Road : Most buses terminate at the Charbagh Bus stand (Ph:
0522 – 450988), near the railway station. They include local services
as well as services from Varanasi, Allahabad, Agra, Jhansi and Kanpur. Other
long-distance buses stop at the Kaisarbagh bus stand (Ph: 0522 – 222503)
near the city centre.
