In every way that one can think of, Nagaland
is a vibrant kaleidoscope of colours, people, nature and experiences of every
hue. It affords you peace and serenity, excitement and vivacity. With the traditional
and modern, the exotic and the universal, all co-existing in one of the most
splendid and unexplored holiday options India and perhaps the world, has left
to offer. As you enter Kohima, the state capital of Nagaland, the first impression
is that the town is a breathtaking study of contrasts. The impression persists
as the jean-clad young mill about. Nike shod, hair cut and coloured per MTV
diktat, ceaselessly chewing paan like their forefathers with consummate ease.
Mingling effortlessly with unlettered clansmen and cousins in mekhla skirts
with wide striped borders, carrying baskets overflowing with fresh produce
to market! Seeming to slip smoothly into their myriad roles devout Christian,
proud practitioner of tribal ritual, computer geek, dutiful son, rap singer,
folk dancer and citizen of the world all fascinatingly rolled into one. Perched
at 1444.12m above sea level, Kohima, a small, pleasant town surrounded by
hills dotted with villages; offers panoramic views of gentle green hills fading
into rugged blue peaks that reach upwards to meet pink clouds. It comes as
no surprise then that a local song goes there is no place in the world, half
as fair as Kohima. An exaggeration perhaps, but Kohima nevertheless, does
have its own incomparable charms that few other Indian hill stations can offer.
History
Dimapur was founded by the Kachari rulers, a Tibeto-Burmese people, displaced
from their territories in Assam by the Ahoms in the 13th century, who resettled
here. They established their kingdom on the banks of the Dhansari River. Di-ma-pur
literally means the great town on the riverbank. As you climb up to the breathtaking
panoramic views of its capital Kohima, the roads wind through thick tropical
jungle, deep gorges, and unexplored terrain.
To far-flung villages where each tribe has, for generations, formed its own
beliefs, practiced its own rites, sung its own history in the splendid isolation
of these verdant hills. There are sixteen major tribes and many minor clans.
While British missionaries zealously converted most Nagas from animalism to
Christianity, the Nagas take immense pride in their clans and customs. Reiterating
their tribal bonds by passing on their traditional ways through unchanged
rituals. Today, Nagaland is one of the last bastions of the world’s
tribal heritage and one of the most culturally diverse and untouched places
left on earth.
Places to See
The Commonwealth World War II Memorial
Near Ser's Bazaar, in Kohima. A walk through the perfectly maintained, flower-filled
rows of graves that line the greens in this cemetery designed by Edward Lutyens
is a serene, nostalgic experience. It was here, at the Battle of Kohima in
1944 that the Japanese assault on India was halted. A small garrison of 3,500
men made a valiant stand against an army of 15,000 for 50 unforgettable days
and nights. Lest we forget, a plaque on one of the cemetery’s tall crosses
reads "When you go home, tell them of us and say, For your tomorrow,
we gave our today".
Kohima Cathedral
The Christmas-New Year week is a great time to visit Kohima. Not only is
the Catholic Cathedral at Aradurah Hill the largest in the North East, it
has the largest wooden crucifix in India as well. Most of the population being
Christian, mass here is a sight and sound to behold as familiar hymns resound
with Nagamese lyrics and rituals firmly in place. Unlike any other Christmas
Eve anywhere.
The Zoo
houses that quintessentially local beast the mithun (a semi-wild bison), golden
langurs, the endangered Blythe's Trangopan pheasant among others. Open from
9am to 4 pm with an hour’s lunch break before noon, it is closed on
Mondays.
Triple Falls
The waterfalls cascade a magnificent 280 ft into a natural pool amidst lush
green vegetation near Seithekima village, is best approached via Dimapur.
Though good roads don’t connect it yet, Trekking here is a good idea.
A resort is being developed here as well as at Chumukedima village by the
Department of Tourism. Chumukedima was the first base the British established
when they attempted to make inroads into this wild, virgin terrain.
The Intanki Wildlife Sanctuary
37 km away from Triple Falls, there is a small Rest House here, for those who
take pleasure in nature. Though home to many wild animals and rare species of
birds and butterflies, there are no organised sightseeing tours at present.
State Museum
With its stunning collection of Naga artefacts and anthropological exhibits
like log drums, statues and woodcarvings will definitely interest you. The
basement has exhibits of birds and animals of the North East. It also has
a large wooden canoe, which is too large to be used in the state, so sparks
of speculations that the Nagas may have come from Sumatra.
Excursion
Dzukou Valley
For adventure seekers, there’s magnificent Japf and Dzukou Valley, 15km
from Kohima. October to March is the best season to scale the heights (3048m
above sea level) of Japf, or trek through its forests. On the other side of
the peak lies the splendid Dzukou Valley. Between June and September, wild
herbs line the edges of serpentine streams that flow through sloping green
downs thickly carpeted with wildflowers. Big bunches of Bluevenda, cling to
tree trunks and 360 varieties of orchids grow in wild profusion on the hillsides.
The place takes your breath away. In winter when frosted gold weeds dangle
icicles, over frozen streams, the valley is even more dazzling.
Dzulekie
Angling for Rainbow trout at Dzulekie, 40 km from Kohima, can be another invigorating
experience. The river so narrow in places, that it seems to have gone underground
as it gushes through a deep gorge. The Tourism Department runs a tourist resort
and cottages here. They hire out trekking and camping equipment.
Konoma
Though the trail is picturesque, and the village is just 20 km away from Kohima,
the road is rough, hire a Sumo. For a real taste of rural Naga life, visit
Konoma village with its wooden homes, clinging to the windblown hillside.
Climb up to the peak which affords 360o views of the surrounding hills and
the golden terrace fields below. Or simply sit with a villager on the sun-warmed
stones and soak in the pastoral tranquility.
Tuophema Village
This village, 41 km from Kohima is the other wonderful place. The Sekrenyi
Festival of the Angami tribe is held here, from 25th to 27th February. Developed
very tastefully, into a tourist village in the Angami style, but with all
modern amenities. It is maintained by the village community and allows you
the experience of actually living in a village and interacting on a personal
level, without compromising on city comforts.
Phek
It is famous for its orchids and rare birds. It is 134 km from Kohima.
Dimapur
It is the only other city in Nagaland besides Kohima. It is the hub of commercial
and industrial activity. It means the 'City of River People’. It is
the only city that is in a valley and looks like a saddle joining two hills.
Here there are interesting menhirs (stone megaliths) that have been erected
by the tribes to honour fame and generosity. Dimapur has decent mid range
and budget accommodation.
Dining Out
Contrary to popular belief, food really isn’t a problem at all. Lots
of places serve regular English breakfasts, pure vegetarian thalis and excellent
Chinese fare. And there’s lip-smacking local fare, if you know what
to ask for. Not just noodles and momos, but a whole world of exotic cuisines.
A profusion of exotic vegetables, wild mushrooms, varied greens, red rice,
tangy chutneys, bamboo pickle and new spices to delight even the vegetarian
palate. Green tamarind is pounded into spicy paste. Syrupy sweet wedges of
pineapple are served on sticks like a lollipop. Even the papayas and oranges,
the passion and other fruit all ooze ambrosia. Fresh squash, frozen lassi
and lemonade made with tart local limes. If you’re strictly a carnivore,
there are delicious chops of home-bred pork to be had. Stir-fried, barbecued
or smoked over pinecones. Juicy beef steaks are not a rarity here and the
rivers and lakes are teaming with trout, mahaseer and salmon that grew up
in these pristine climes. Tribal cuisine is amazingly varied and makes innovative
use of whatever is available. Food is rarely doused in masala. Subtle flavours
mingle with ease. The road from Dimapur to Kohima is lined with many Manipuri
Rice Hotels serving excellent local cuisine. Pherima village is a good stop
to sample some. Hotel Regale promises the Sema tribe’s delicacy Dry
Pork with Axone (fermented soybean paste. The Bamboo shoot Restaurant offers
Lotha cuisine.
If you’re the queasy kind and your sense of adventure stops here, stop
at a pineapple stall on the highway and try their sweet, juicy pineapples.
China Town & Little China near Police HQ, serves good Chinese, Rendezvous
nearby, serves multi-cuisine and the best Indian food. Evergreen is perfect
for vegetarians hot spicy sambhar, dosas, idlis etc. At Popular Bakery on
PR Hill Chowmein-samosas-hotdogs are all on the menu. There’s a fast
food place, Spice Zone with dosas, chaat, chowmein, burgers and even cholle
bhature in the Ser’s Bazaar shopping arcade. A long counter here, stocked
chock-a-block with exotic sweets, chewing gums, preserved plums, Thai khemboi
and all manner of Burmese goodies runs eye-level with a 2-7-year age group’s
eyeballs. Very successfully too, from the sound of the podgy kid in red clips
wailing as loud as she can. She walked out smiling, with a bagful of treats.
We prefer to climb above, to Dream Cafe where you can actually order snacks,
exotic coffees and just chill to the soothing music after hours of shopping.
Shopping
The traditional ceremonial attire of each tribe is in itself, an awe inspiring
sight to behold; the multi coloured spearsand 'daos' decorated with dyed goat
hair, the headgear made of finely woven bamboo interlaced with orchid stems,
adorned with boar’s teeth and hornbill’s feathers, elephant tusk
armlets. The traditions of 16 distinct tribes adorn the beautifully hand woven
Mekhela sarongs, tribal shawls, their jewellery and beadwork. The present
generation has ventured into fashion designing in a big way; reproducing fabrics
that represent the ancestral motifs blended with modern appeal. A Naga Fashion
Show leaves you spellbound by the wealth of talent in the North East.
Handicraft and Handloom Emporium
Opposite the taxi stand, they stock fantastic take-homes. It is the one place
everyone must visit. Shawls, jackets, skirts, hats, spears, short dao swords
and fantastic bold jewellery with copper heads to dangle on your chest. Wooden
bowls, belts, and stark graphic figurines one could kill for.
G- This is the other handicraft place, especially good for
home furnishings, traditional garments, shawls and beadwork.
Ser’s Bazaar
A stone throw below the Cemetery, this lovely little shopping arcade
sells everything from Thai shirts via Nepal to Japanese rice cookers and Chinese
Ginseng Root products. Makes you strong. You know? Asks the man at the counter,
waving a pint of tan liquor and veiled innuendo into a thin man’s face.
The tourist gingerly turns the bottle and reads the label. Hmmmm enlightened,
he smiles. A leer and money passes between them as it is hastily wrapped up.
You can tell the men from the boys simply by the fact that men seem to linger
near the jackets and trekking shoes while the boys gravitate towards the death
metal CDs. Ah, there again. Among all the lotions and potions to glad any woman’s
heart, is Ginseng Pearl Cream, with how to instructions in small type
Visiting
The best time to visit Kohima is between October and May when the weather
is just right and the people are in their festive mood. June to September
is tropical and rainy and is best avoided if you are here on a holiday.
How to get there
By Air : The airport is in Dimapur, 74 kms away from Kohima.
Guwahati (Assam) has flights thrice a week and Calcutta (West Bengal) four times
a week to Dimapur. Tourist buses, taxis and local buses will take you to Kohima
from Dimapur airport and journey time is about 3 hours.
By Train : The nearest railhead is Dimapur, 74 km from Kohima.
There are trains that connect Guwahati to Dimapur. Guwahati, in turn, is very
well connected to the rest of India. Tourist buses, taxis and local buses will
take you to Kohima, the capital, from Dimapur and it takes about 3 hours.
By Road : Kohima is connected to Imphal (123 km) and Guwahati
(400 km) by road. However, driving up to Kohima from Guwahati can be very tiring
due to the distance and the state of the roads, not to mention dangerous because
of the insurgency. Facilities would not be so readily available should your
car or bus break down. Flying in to Dimapur is the best option.
