Home :: India City Destination :: Guwahati

An unfathomable river courses wildly along this city as ancient hills look on verdantly from the sides. It is a remote town, well connected yet largely unexplored. That is Guwahati for you. Hailed as the Gateway to the Northeast, this city hardly features prominently on the itinerant’s map despite it being undeniable as to how much it has on offer - cruises on the Brahmaputra, occult practices in age-old temples, undulating tea estates, meeting tribals upclose, and of course a glimpse of the lord of the Kaziranga, the one-horned rhino. Guwahati, alike its Northeastern cousins, has a pristine beauty, waiting for that beholder with an eye to appreciate.

History
This is a truly ancient city. Early epics and Vedas refer to the land as the sacred Pragjyotishpura and Kamarup desa. As to how the city got its name is interesting. Guwahati is a combination of Guwameaning betel and hatimeaning market; it was a market selling betel nuts. According to another story, the city being surrounded by hills resembles a cave (guha) from the top. And with the River Brahmaputra and Bharalu, its tributary, this looks like an elephant (hati in Assamese). So both put together it became Guhahati. Many people believe the name became Gauhati under the British and then changed to Guwahati.

The city was caught between two powerful kingdoms: the Ahom and the Koch. The Koch regions were soon overrun by the Mughals. But neither the Koch nor the Mughals could consolidate Guwahati into their empire. It was the Ahom kings who integrated it into their kingdom.

The British developed the region into a tea plantation. After Independence and reorganisation of states, Guwahati has seen much violence, thanks to separatist demand for an independent Bodoland by a section of the region’s tribals

Places to See
Assam has a rich cultural heritage to boast of. So a visit to Guwahati, during Bihu will be ideal. Also, when you are in Guwahati move away from the main city to explore the relatively tranquil areas. The city centre, like any other, is noisy, populated and polluted but you only need to move a little away to discover the unravished bride of beauty awaiting you in all her splendour.

Kamakhya Temple
Up on the Nilachal Hill is this ancient temple dedicated to the Mother Goddess. King Nara Narayana of Cooch Behar built the present structure in 1665, but its history goes way beyond. Legend has it that when Lord Shiva carried the charred corpse of his wife, Sati (after she jumped into the sacrificial fire raised by her father), her genitalia (yoni) fell here. Animal sacrifices are a regular feature here and occult has a strong hold.

Umananda Temple
This island temple in the middle of the Brahmaputra on Peacock Island is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Motorboats from Kachari Ghat on MG Road will ferry you here. The Shivratri festival sees people throng to the temple for a special darshan.

Nabagraha Temple
An unusual temple, the presiding deities here are the nine grahas or planets, symbolized by nine lingas. On Chitrachal Hill, it is also a centre for the study of astrology and astronomy.

Aswaklanta
Also along the Brahmaputra bank, this is where Arjuna (third of the five Pandava brothers of the Mahabharata fame) is believed to have watered his horse while undertaking a journey during the Ashwamedh Yajna. Regular ferry services are available.

Basisthashram
This is where Sage Bashistha is believed to have lived. Up in the Sandhyachal Hill, the place is very picturesque with gurgling streams and forest cover. Basisthashram is 12 km from the railway station.

Deepor beel
Visit this freshwater lake for a splendid view of the distant hills. The Ahom kings apparently used it to dock their ships. Winter sees flocks of migratory birds descending here.

Chandubi
Are you looking for a serene spot to spend your leisure? Then this natural lagoon about 64 km from Guwahati, will provide you the perfect holiday haven. Be ready with your hook and line for fishing or row quietly on a hired boat or best, sit by the lakeside and lose your self in a trance!

Shankardev Kalakshetra
This art academy hosts festivals of dance, music and theatre. It has a Central Museum which showcases various day-to-day articles used by different ethnic groups. There is an open-air theatre and an Artists' Village that is the recreation of a rural township.

Guwahati Tea Auction Center (GTAC)
The largest auction in India, you can attend it with prior permission. Call 2224516/ 544462 for more details

Excursion
Hajo
About 30 km from Guwahati, it is home to the Hayagriva Madhava Mandir of the Hindus and Buddhists and the Poa Mecca Mosque of the Muslims, built by the son of Shah Jahan. The Madan Kamdev Complex, touted as the Khajuraho of Kamrup, is nearby.

Kaziranga Game Sanctuary
Assam is best known for the Kaziranga Game Sanctuary covering an area of 430 km. Home to the nearly extinct one-horned rhino, one can also spot elephants, sloth bears, tigers, leopard cats, jungle cats, hog badgers, capped langurs, hoolock gibbons, pigs, jackals, porcupines, pythons, buffaloes, Indian bisons, swamp deer, sambhars and hog deer from very close quarters. Trips into the sanctuary are taken at dawn on elephants that wade through the tall elephant-grass and give you a vantage view of animals waking up to the day. The sight of the one-horned rhino bathing in ponds with its offspring on its back is one you just cannot afford to miss. Do wear trousers that fully cover your legs to avoid abrasions from the elephant-grass. The best season to visit this park is November to April. Avoid the monsoons (June to September) that bring heavy rainfall and often flood the park. There is a wide range of accommodation available at the park ranging from luxury hotels to rest houses and dormitories. The nearest airport is Jorhat but Guwahati is connected by many more flights. Kaziranga is 96km from Jorhat and 239km from Guwahati. Cars are available on rent at Guwahati and Jorhat airports. Taxis and buses from these cities will also get you to Kaziranga. For reservations contact Joint Director of Tourism, Kaziranga, P.O. Kaziranga National Park, Dist. Jorhat, Assam, India: 785612.

Tawang
If you have time in hand, and are curious to take a peek into the Northeast Indian tribal culture, then visit the Tawang Monpa tribal village in the neighbouring state of Arunachal Pradesh. Drive through the tea gardens of Tezpur to Bhalukpung (240 km), and proceed from there to Tawang. Apart from tiny tribal villages, there’s a 350-year-old Buddhist monastery that is worth a visit. Also visit the 460-year-old monastery established by the Lama Urghen Sangpo Bhumthang and the nunneries, locally called Ani Gompa. Tawang's Monpa villagers and Lamas will readily perform tribal dances. Also let you taste their cuisine comprising dumplings of maize or millet flour, rice or buckwheat and buttered tea.

Manas
The only tiger reserve in Assam and also famous for the rare golden Langur and red Panda, Manas is one of the best-kept national parks in India. The wildlife is best seen on elephant back at dawn. The best months to visit are October to April. Avoid the monsoons (June to September) when heavy rains can flood the park and wildlife stay away. For accommodation there are two lodges maintained and run by the tourist department. The state department has two bungalows located at Mathanguri inside the forest. Manas National Park is 176km from Guwahati and it makes a lot of sense to drive down because the roads are very motorable. State transport authorities and private operators have bus services to Manas from Guwahati. You can also hire taxis to Manas from Guwahati. For reservations contact Tourist Information Officer, Barpeta Road, Assam, India: 781315; Tel: 03666-32749.

Shillong
Situated at an altitude of 1500 meters above sea level, romantic and picturesque with an abundance of natural beauty, Shillong is described as 'Scotland of the East' because of its striking similarity to the Scottish highlands. Although it is a bustling city today, its striking waterfalls and caves are just a breath away. Shillong also boasts of Asia’s first 18 golf course. Within the city is the flower bedecked Ward’s Lake encircled by whispering pine groves. Take a boat ride if you want to or feed the multihued fish standing on the bridge across the lake. You’ll love the walks in this city although it does get a little crowded with cars in the afternoon. Lady Hydari Park doubles up as a miniature zoo and is a short distance away from Ward’s Lake. A visit to the cathedral at Dhankheti is a must – it has beautiful stained glass windows and the grotto is carved out of a single rock. The bells of the cathedral resonate across the city at dawn, in the afternoon and dusk. You can hire a taxi or take a conducted bus tour of the sights around the city – the cascading Elephant Falls, the twin Beadon and Bishop Falls, Sweet Falls, Crinoline Falls, the Shillong Peak, the Cherrapunjee limestone caves and the Barapani Lake could all be a part of your itinerary.

Dining Out
Sunflower (Panbazaar) serves authentic Assamese cuisine. For delectable Mughlai and north Indian fare, try Tandoori at the Dynasty Hotel or Nashraj at Hotel Nova. JB on MG Road has a decent bakery and a chaat corner, besides a veggie restaurant.

Jolporee a government-run restaurant on MG Road offers a dinner cruise on the Brahmaputra. This is a really wonderful experience as you can relish the piping hot food, with the cold waters of the Brahmaputra issuing soft noises.

Shopping
Assamese Muga, Paat and Eri silks are valuable buys. You can pick them up from Pragjyotika, the state emporium situated in Ambari. If you want to buy directly from the weavers, then drive 30 km to Sualkuchi, a silk-weaving centre.
The places to shop for handicrafts like jappi, the traditional sunshade, bell metal and brass articles, bamboo toys and earthenware include Pragjyotika as well as several shops in Pan Bazaar and Fancy Bazaar.

Original Assam tea, known for its strong liquor and lingering taste, can be bought from shops along GS Road.

Visiting
The best time to visit Guwahati is November to March when the heat and humidity are tempered by the cool winds blowing in from the Himalayan foothills. June brings the onslaught of heavy rains and it lasts until September. Guwahati has a fairly good drainage system leaving communication relatively unaffected by the rains. Air traffic does get affected though.

How to get there
By Air : There are daily flights to Borjhar Airport, Guwahati, from Delhi and Calcutta. Flights from Agartala, Dibrugarh, Dimapur, Imphal and Silchar arrive in Guwahati on a tri-weekly basis. Taxis and coaches take you in to the city, which is 25 km away.

By Train : There are several trains connecting various Indian cities to Guwahati. The Rajdhani Express from New Delhi takes 28 hours; Kamrup Express from Calcutta takes 22 hours; Northeast Express from Delhi takes 37 hours; Brahmaputra Mail from Delhi takes 41 hours; Dadar Express from Bombay takes 54 hours; Bangalore Express from Bangalore takes 61 hours; Trivandrum Express from Trivandrum takes 72 hours; Saraighat Express from Howrah takes 18 hours – and all these trains run at least twice a week to Guwahati. Within northeast India, the Brahmaputra Mail gets you to Guwahati from Dimapur in 10 hours, Tinsukhia in 17 hours and Dibrugarh in 19 hours.

By Road : Guwahati is the nodal point for road transport in northeast India. Four national highways meet in this city. You can drive into Guwahati from Agartala (Tripura), Aizawl (Mizoram), Bomdila (Arunachal Pradesh), Cooch Behar (West Bengal), Dimapur (Nagaland), Itanagar (Arunachal Pradesh), Imphal (Manipur), Kohima (Nagaland), Shillong andTura (Meghalaya) and Dibrugarh, Digboi, Sibsagar, Silchar, Tinsukhia and Tezpur (Assam).