Nestling in the lush greenery of the Himalayas
is Gangtok (5,800 ft), the small capital city of Sikkim, where Buddhist prayer
flags flutter in the mountain breeze, exotic orchids and chirruping birds run
riot in a colourful melee. Visit Gangtok for a peek at the profusion of blooming
rhododendrons in the deepest of reds and savour the serene cool beauty of the
snow clad peaks in an ambience enhanced by the cheerful bustle of a warm, hospitable,
pleasant and hard-working people.
Gangtok is a blend of the traditional and modern, where modern concrete multi-storeyed
structures clinging to the hillside stand alongside ‘chortens’
(stupas) and monasteries; young college girls in trendy dresses rub shoulders
in the market place with elderly matrons clad in traditional 'bakus' and lamas
in colourful maroon and mustard robes play football with youngsters in blue
jeans and T-shirts.
History
one knows how the Lepchas came to Sikkim, but their can be traced back to
the animist Nagas of the Indo-Burmese border. Buddhism which arrived from
Tibet in 13th century took its distinctive sikkimese from four centuries later
when three Tibetan monks disenchanted with the rise of the reformist Gelug
-Pas, migrated south and gathered at Yoksum in western Sikkim. Over the centuries
territory was lost to Bhutanese, the Nepalese and the British. Sikkim originally
ceded Darjeeling to the east India Company as a spa in 1817, but was forced
to give up all claims to it in 1861, when kingdom was declared a protectorate
of the British. After Indian independence, the reforming and intensely spiritual
eleventh chogyal, Tashi Namgyal, strove hard until his death in 1962 to prevent
the dissolution of his kingdom. The chogyal remained as a figurehead until
his death in 1981. Today the Sikkim democratic Front forms the government
of Sikkim and while life in Sikkim remains generally contended affecting the
state infrastructure.
Places to See
The huge white
Do-Drul Chorten with its golden spire is a landmark
of Gangtok. Built in 1945, it is surrounded by 108 prayer wheels and houses
several rare religious texts. Nearby are two gompas
(Tibetan Buddhist
temples) housing huge statues of Guru Padmasambhava. About three km
from the town, set on a prominent ridge, is the Enchey Monastery, the seat of
the Nyingma order. This is where you can see masked dances performed during
the ‘Chaam’ festival in January every year. The
Government
Institute of Cottage Industries (also called the Directorate of Handicrafts
and Handloom) promotes and teaches the ancient crafts of Sikkim (like painting,
mask making, weaving, wood carving) to keep them alive. You can spend hours
exploring the Research Institute of Tibetology, housed in a traditional terracotta-and-white
building. It is a unique centre for the study of Buddhist philosophy and religion.
It has a collection of rare Buddhist manuscripts, ‘thankas’ (religious
tapestries), and other artefacts. It is open throughout the week – 10
am to 4 pm.
There are several interesting places around Gangtok, such as Ganesh Tok (7
km), Hanuman Tok (11 km) and Tashi View Point (8 km) from where you get the
most amazing views of the Kanchenjunga Mt. Siniolchu and other snow-clad peaks.
Excursion
Rumtek Monastery
Located 24 km away from Sikkim, the large gompa of Rumtek is the main seat of
the Karma Kagyu lineage also known as the Black Hat sect. It was built in 1960
by his holiness late 16th Gyalwa Karmapa. It is a replica of original Kagyurpa
monastery in Tibet. It now functions as the Dharma chakra religious center.
Within the monastery the memorial Stupa of the Karmapa inlaid with gold plate
and semi precious stones.
(Open from 8 am to 5 pm in summer and 10 am to 5 pm in winter).
Phodong
Some 38 km north of Gangtok in a rarely visited region lies Phodong and the
Labrang Gompa (Tibet-Buddhist monasteries), one of the six most important
in Sikkim. Though smaller than the one at Rumtek, this one has a unique architecture
and well worth a visit for the splendid views into the valley below.
Changu Lake
For a truly unforgettable experience, visit the sacred and serene Changu Lake
(3780 m, 12400 ft). To get there, travel 40 km eastwards of Gangtok, along
a narrow road that snakes precariously along steep mountainsides. The lake
remains frozen for the greater part of the year and comes alive during May
to August when rhododendrons, iris, primulas and poppies burst into bloom
on its banks and on the adjoining hill slopes.
North Sikkim
With bleak and barren mountain peaks, this is the land of the nomadic Yak
herdsmen. All tourists require a Permitto visit North Sikkim.
Do not miss the opportunity to visit the remote and spectacular Yumthang
Valley (11,800ft) in this region, 140 km from Gangtok. In May, the hillside
here erupts in fiery colours of the rhododendrons – purple, red, white,
yellow, pinks. For a 3-day ‘Alpine Package Tour’ to this fascinating
place, contact the Tourist Department at Gangtok.
Enroute, Singhik offers a magnificent view of the entire Kanchenjunga range.
Further on is Chungthang, a predominantly Lepcha region at the source of the
Teesta River. Spend a night at the quaint Lachung village, just 25 km short
of Yumthang, where the residents have retained their unique traditional way
of life and are governed by the village ‘zumsa’
.Sanchi
Another World Heritage Site, these stupas, temples and gateways are embellished
with delicate carvings depicting the life and teachings of the Buddha. On
Buddha Purnima (full moon), Buddhists from all over the world congregate at
Sanchi to celebrate the triple anniversary of Gautama Buddha's birth, enlightenment
and renunciation. Situated 46 km from Bhopal, hiring a cab is the best way
to reach here
West Sikkim
The main attraction in this region is the exciting trekking trails, including
the Kanchenjunga trek that goes to Dzongri at the foot of the peak. The other
major points of interest here are the monasteries at
Pemayangtse
and
Tashiding.
Enroute from Gangtok to
Pelling (112km) are transit points
at Singtam, Rabangla and Legship. The Pemayangtse Monastery, one of Sikkim’s
holiest and the second oldest is just 3 km from here. It belongs to the Nyingma-pa
order and is set on a hilltop at 6840 ft, providing excellent views of the countryside.
The striking murals, the model of the heavenly abode of Guru Rimpoche that is
housed here and the ambience of this sacred site justify the long and strenuous
journey.
At a walking distance from the monastery are the Rabdentse ruins, once the
capital of Sikkim, from where you can see the mighty Kanchenjunga across a
deep valley. And some 27 km away is the sacred Khecheopalri Lake, (‘Tsho-Sho-Tsho’
or ‘The Wishing Lake’, as the Sikkimese call it), hidden amidst
green forests and surrounded by Buddhist prayer flags. The lake is a popular
trekkers’ destination. It is said that birds keep the lake clean, even
removing all the leaves that fall on the water.
The Tashiding Monastery (about 30 km from Legship) is set on top of a heart-shaped
hill from where Guru Padmasambhava is said to have blessed the land of Sikkim
during the 8th century. The monastery was built in the 18th century by one
of the lamas who performed the consecration ceremony of the first Chogyal.
An annual ‘sacred water festival’ (‘Bhumchu’), held
during the first Tibetan month (around March), attracts thousands of devout
pilgrims.
Just 22 km north of Pelling is Yoksum, the first capital of Sikkim and now
the trailhead for trekkers headed to Dzongri and other trekking destinations.
It can also be reached from Khecheopalri Lake on foot along a picturesque
trail (8 km, 3 hours). If you are looking for high adventure and are in good
physical shape, Yoksum would be the base from where you could embark on various
unforgettable treks, including one into the high altitude areas of Sikkim.
For details contact the Adventure Division of Sikkim Tourism or any recognised
travel agency in Gangtok.
In case you choose the Kanchenjunga Trek, which could take you to Goecha
La (4940 m, over 16000 ft), be sure to allow for enough acclimatisation stops
along the way, as your trek takes you to ever higher reaches of this beautiful
land.
South Sikkim
This region, generally at lower altitudes than Western Sikkim, has its own
beauty and charm with a few interesting trekking destinations.
Tendong Hill (8530 ft) is a flat hill feature above Damthang and overlooking
the town of Namchi. The story goes that it saved the Lepchas during the flood
that inundated the world (like in Noah’s Ark), and so the Lepchas hold
it in great reverence. You will always remember the stunning views from here
of the plains to the south and snow-clad peaks to the north. Towering higher,
and approached from Ravangla (just 13 km from Damthang), is Menam Hill (10,300
ft) that provides equally spectacular views, not just of the plains on a clear
day, but of the imposing Kanchenjunga, which dwarfs everything around it.
From here you can go on to Borong village with its hot springs.
Further west, some 60 km from Naya Bazar is Hilley, the take off point for
an easy trek (4 km) to the Versey Rhododendron Sanctuary.
Dining Out
Some of the hotels in Gangtok have restaurants attached to them that serve
Tibetan, Chinese and Indian food. Many more options for dining are on offer
in the central market area of Gangtok, which is full of restaurants and bars.
Liquor is widely available in Sikkim but it is important to remember that
the Sikkimese do not drink on full moon days.
Shopping
In Gangtok, the capital city, the main areas for shopping are Old Market,
New Market and Lal Market. The government handicraft and handloom emporia
are on the crossing of M.G. Marg and New Market and are the best places to
buy carpets, masks, religious scroll "tankha" paintings on silk,
Buddhist prayer wheels and bright Choktse tables.
Visiting
The best season to visit Gangtok is between October and May. The flowers bloom
from March to May and clear views of the Himalayan peaks are guaranteed between
October and mid-December. June to September brings heavy rains causing landslides
that can disrupt communication. January and February means snow in the higher
altitudes and visits to some of the tourist spots around Gangtok will not
be possible.
How to get there
By Air : Gangtok is not directly served by air. The closest
airport is at Bagdogra, West Bengal. The 124 km drive to Gangtok takes 5 hours
and is facilitated by numerous taxis, shared jeeps and hired cars with chauffeurs.
By Train : Gangtok is not on the railway map. The nearest railhead
is New Jalpaiguri (West Bengal), 125km away from Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim.
Trains from all the major cities of India connect to New Jalpaiguri. The drive
to Gangtok city takes about five hours and numerous buses, taxis, shared 4WDs
and hired cars with chauffeurs cover the distance all through the day.
By Road : The drive to Gangtok from Siliguri (West Bengal),
114 km away, is the shortest. Darjeeling, the beautiful and oft-visited hill
station in West Bengal is also connected by road to Gangtok. Taxis, buses and
hired cars with drivers ply regularly on these routes as they inch past the
narrow but well maintained mountain roads. Passengers request a vegetable-shopping
stop as they pass through little hamlets with fresh vegetables sold on the roadsides.
The drive is very scenic with the Teesta River flowing on the left hand side
and the green hills on the right. As you get closer to Gangtok, look out for
the multihued flowers that dot the landscape, especially in spring.
