Undulating and shifting sand dunes in the rugged Thar Desert open out to
a magnificent city of forts, palaces and markets, fortified against marauders
by seven km long embattlements. This fortified desert city lies in the northern
part of the Thar Desert and being a good source of sweet water, became an
important caravanserai for the merchants and traders who travelled with their
camel trains from West and Central Asia to the kingdoms of East Asia.
Immensely wealthy, the desert kingdom of Bikaner was ruled over by a powerful
dynasty that traced its lineage to the old ruling family of Jodhpur. But it
was Rao Bikaji who built the splendid havelis, forts and palaces in the desert
city that bears his name. The ‘unspoiled’ ambience of well preserved
medieval splendour and colourful bazaars make Bikaner a city well worth visiting.
History
City, north-central Rajasthan state, northwestern India. It lies 240 miles
(386 km) west of Delhi. The city was the capital of the former princely state
of Bikaner. About 1465 Bika, a Rajput chieftain of the Rathor clan, began
to conquer the area from other Rajput clans. In 1488 he began building the
city of Bikaner (“the settlement of Bika”). He died in 1504, and
his successors gradually extended their possessions. The state adhered loyally
to the Mughal emperors, who ruled in Delhi from 1526 to 1857. Rai Singh, who
succeeded as chieftain of Bikaner in 1571, became one of the emperor Akbar's
most distinguished generals and was named the first raja of Bikaner. As Mughal
dominance ebbed, wars between Bikaner and the princely state of Jodhpur raged
intermittently in the 18th century. A treaty establishing British paramountcy
was concluded in 1818, and order was restored in the country by British troops.
The rebellious behavior of the local thakurs, or subsidiary chiefs, continued,
however, until the princely state was made subject to the Rajputana agency
in 1883. The state's military force included the Bikaner Camel Corps, which
gained renown in China during the Boxer Rebellion (1900) and in the Middle
East during World War I. In 1949 Bikaner, which by then totaled more than
23,000 square miles (60,000 square km) in area, became part of the Indian
state of Rajasthan and was divided into three districts.
Bikaner's history dates back to 1488 AD when a Rajput prince Rao Bikaji a
descendent of the founder of Jodhpur (1459 AD), Rao Jodha Ji established his
kingdom here. Bika Ji chose a barren land called "Jungladesh"
and shaped it into an impressive city, called Bikaner after the founder's
name. Archeological surveys and excavations have established beyond doubt
that civilization flourished here even before the Harappa period. Excavated
statues, coins and carvings of stones and clay stands as testimony to this
fact. Ever since the foundation of Bikaner till its accession into Indian
Union in 1947 A.D. and there after it's integration in Rajasthan state in
30-3-1949 A.D., Bikaner has played a notable role in the history of the country.
Bikaner was a Princely State with 17 gun salute, listed by the post independence
territory to which they acceded and the Thikanas listed by Princely State
in which they existed.
Present Ruler: HH Maharajadhiraj Raj Rajeshwar Narendra Shiromani
Maharajah Sri NARENDRA SINGH Bahadur, 25th Maharaja of Bikaner (1988/-) (Lallgarh
Palace, Bikaner-334001, Rajasthan, India)
Places to See
Junagarh Fort
Built in 1593 A.D. by Raja Rai Singh (1571-1611 A.D.), a general in the army
of emperor Akbar, the fort is a formidable structure encircled by a moat and
has some beautiful places within. These places, made in red sandstone (Dulmera)
and marble, make a picturesque ensemble of courtyards, balconies, kiosks and
windows dotted all over the structure.
The imposing fort has 986 long walls with 37 bastions and two entrances. It
is approached through the Karan Poal which is the main entrance. Among the
places of interest are Anop mahal, Ganga niwas and Rang mahal or palace of
pleasure. The Anoop Mahal is famous for its gold leaf painting. Har Mandir-
a majestic chapel where the royal family worshiped there Gods and Goddesses.
Chandra mahal or moon palace has exquisite paintings on the lime plaster walls
and Phool mahal or the Flower palace is decorated with inset mirror work.
The gigantic columns, arches and graceful screen grace the palaces. Karan
Mahal was built to commemorate a notable victory over the Mughal Aurangzeb.
The other important parts are Durbar Hall, Gaj mandir, Sheesh Mahal or mirror
chamber etc.
Ganga Golden Jubilee Museum
This musemum is the best amongst the many royal museums in Rajasthan. Its
reputation has been enhanced by its rare collection of terra-cotta ware, weapons,
miniature paintings from the Bikaner School and coins. Most of the exhibits
are masterpieces of Harappan civilization obtained from the archaeological
excavations in the vicinity, as well as some from the Gupta and Kushan periods.
Bhandaser Jain Temple
This 15 century Temple, is the oldest and distinct monument of bikaner dedicated
to Sumati Nath Ji, the 5th Tirthankar of the Jain Religion. The temple is
decorated with rich mirror work, frescoes and gold leaf paintings. The beautiful
temple was erected near Laxminath temple in 1540A.D.Pure ghee (butter oil)
and coconuts were reported to have been used in laying the foundation. Carved
in red sand stone and white marble - it’s famous for carvings ,wall
paintings , structural beauty and artistically designed statues.
Camel Research Centre
The National Research Centre on Camel, Bikaner is located in the Jorbeer area
at a distance of about 10 km from Bikaner city. It was established on 5th
July 1984. Prior to that the Centre was known as camel breeding farm under
the aegis of college of Veterinary and Animal Science, Rajasthan Agricultural
University, Bikaner.
The Centre has the responsibility to conduct basic and applied research for
the improvement of camel. Over the years NRCC has developed excellent laboratory
facilities and infrastructure. An elite herd of Bikaneri, Jaisalmeri and Kachchhi
breed of camel has been developed and maintained at the Centre. Scientists
of the Centre were successful in finding out the genetic variation within
and between camel breeds using molecular markers. The technique of embryo
transfer has been used successfully in producing two camel calves at the Centre.
Extensive studies on evaluation of draughtability of camel breeds have been
carried out by the Centre. The feed requirement during various stages i.e.
lactation, pregnancy, draught has been studied and locally available feed/fodder
resources were evaluated by the Centre. The Centre has also generated useful
information on double humped camel found in Nobra Valley of Laddakh region.
The Centre has been identified as one of the important tourist place of Bikaner
and is included in the tourist map of Rajasthan. The Centre has developed
a camel museum which attracts the attention of researchers and tourist. Every
year thousands of Foreign and Indian tourists visit the Centre. The Centre
remains open on all days from 2.30 PM to 5.30 PM for the visitors. The Centre
also participates in various events held during the camel festival organised
every year by Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation and Local Administration.
National Research Centre On Equines
Main objectives of the centre is to improve and conserve Marwari Horses and
also to produce French male Donkeys for improving indigenous donkeys and mule
production. Tonga(Horse Carriage ) and horse riding is available in visiting
on payment.
The Centre has well equipped laboratories for Virology, Cell Culture cum Hybridoma,
Bacteriology & Mycology, Parasitology, Equine Infectious Anaemia (EIA),
Immunology, Pathology, Biochemistry & Biotechnology, Clinical Medicine,
Genetics & Breeding, Reproduction, Physiology and Nutrition to support
research programmes in different fields of equine health and production.
The development of equine sick line, infectious disease sheds cum post-mortem
complex and quarantine facilities is underway. An information centre is being
developed for the Centre to depict the development of equines, equine science
and NRCE as a whole as also to provide quick overview of the activities of
the Centre. This will help in providing information related to equines and
technologies generated at NRCE directly to the end-users; the farmers, equine
owners, equine breeders and the equine industry as a whole
Laxmi Nath Temple
Lakshmi Nath Temple is one of the oldest temples of Bikaner. The foundation
of Bikaner was laid here in the year 1488 A.D. by Rao Bikaji. It being a historical
monument has special identity. This temple was erected during the reign of
Rao Lunkaran and boasts of the superb archeological skills of artists and
artisans . It was later developed by Maharaja Ganga Singh Ji. Statues of deities-
Vishnu and Laxmi - have all along received the unwavering devotion of countless
people through the last four and half centuries.
Lallgarh Palace & Sadul Museum
The architectural masterpiece in red sandstone, the palace was built by Maharaja
Ganga Singh (1881-1942 A.D.) in the memory of his father Maharaja Lal Singhji
in 1902 AD. The palace has beautiful latticework and filigree work. Sprawling
lawns with blooming bougainvillea and dancing peacocks make it to be a not
-to-be missed visual treat.
This oriental fantasy Designed by Col. Sir Swinton Jacob, is entirely hybrid
architecture -a mixture of different elements of Rajput, Muslim and European
styles and can be categorized as Indo-Seresanic style. The Rajput exterior
of this palace contrasts dramatically with the occidental decor within. The
intricately dexterous carving on red sandstone is a hallmark of great craftsmanship.
The exotic palace has magnificent pillars, richly carved fire mantles , Italian
colonnades and motif of lotus in full bloom , adding to the magic of this
jewel of the desert. Walls of palaces are reminiscent of the past vintage
etchings, hunting trophies and old portraits. The palace has its own museum
and library (the fourth largest in the world), clay pigeon trap and skeet
shooting traps facilities at adjoining ranges.
Bikaner royal family still lives in part of the palace. And part of the palace
has been converted into a luxury hotel and a museum known as Shri Sadul museum
which was donated by late his highness maharaja Dr. Karni Singhji of Bikaner
to Maharaja Shri Ganga singhji Trust Bikaner in the year 1972 . Princess Rajyashree
Kumari of Bikaner, Chairperson of Trust played a very important role in the
establishment of this museum.
The museum covers the entire first floor of the Lallgarh palace and depicts
the lives and times of three successive - Maharaja Ganga Singh, Sadul Singh
and Karni Singh through the various artifacts and photographs displayed in
22 rooms
Shiv Bari Temple
Built by Dungar Singhji in the late 19th century. The temple is surrounded
by an embattlement wall. It has four-faced black marble Shiva statue and a
bronze Nandi facing the Shiva-Lingam. There are two large reservoirs of water
known as bawaris.
This red sandstone temple attracts thousands of visitors during Shravan (Feb)
especially on Mondays.
Ratan Behari temple
A splendid temple building made of white marble. It is a fine example of Indo-Mughal
architecture, situated on King Edwats Memotial Road, near Junagarh Fort. The
temple was built by the 18th ruler of Bikaner state, Lord Ratan Singh, in
1846 A.D., It is dedicated to Lord Krishna. The outer portion of this temple
has an ethereal beauty. The xanctum of the temple is unique where the idol
of lord Krishna and his wife and his girl friend are fixed. The temple has
very spaciors quadrangle floor made of marble. Arcade design beside the Quadrangle
floors mades the sight very magnificent. You are recommended to see the sight
of this lovely temple
Excursion
Kolayat temple
51 Km from Bikaner on highway leading to Jaisalmer. From Gajner it’s
an easy drive to Kolayat - an old pilgrimage centre where Kapil Muni of the
vedic fame is believed to have shed his body under a peepul tree. Kolayat
has a series of charming marble temple, sandstone pavilions and 32 ghats (bathing
places) built around a huge artificial lake which never goes dry.
Here one can see sadhus and pilgrims taking a holy dip, surrounded by the
vast emptiness of a timeless atmosphere and the golden desert. On Karthik
Purnima day a grand fair is held in which devotees from all over the country
come to take a holy bath in the lake.
A famous pilgrimage spot with a temple dedicated to Kapil Muni (saint) Kapil
Muni sat in meditation near lake. Muni was profounder of Sankhya Philosophy
The temple is the venue for an annual fair held in the month of Kartik (Oct-Nov)
when the thousands of devotees gather in a large number to take a sacred dip
in the holy waters of the Kolayat lake( Kapil Sarovar) on the full moon day.
Lake is considered to have the effect of washing off the sins of devotees.
A cattle fair ,especially for the trading of camels is a part of the festivities.
The town is connected to Bikaner by road as well as rail.
Karni Mata Temple
The 600-year-old KarniMataTemple at Deshnoke, 30 km from Bikaner is dedicated
to the patron goddess of the rulers of Bikaner. The temple, among the strangest
in India, is not for the squeamish as it is famous for the legions of rats
that are feted and worshipped here. Devotees tread warily to reach the inner
recesses of the temple, for injury to a rat would be sacrilege. Pied Piper
can whistle all he wants but he is certainly not welcome in this temple’s
precincts!
Gajner Palace (30 Km)
Gajner Palace -a summer resort of Bikaner Maharajas -has often been described
as ' an incomparable jewel in the Thar desert'. Built by Maharaja Ganga Singh
ji of Bikaner, palace stands on the embankment of a lake .The palace was used
by Maharaja for grand shoots and lavish entertainment. Royalty, Indian as
well as international, Viceroys and other dignitaries have been entertained
at this grand palace. The architecture of Gajner palace is truly outstanding.
Built in red sandstone with intricately carved pillars, jharokhas and screens
, the craftsmanship here is amazing. A part of palace has been transformed
into hotel.
In the 18th century, when Maharaja Gaj Singh married a Jaisalmer Princess,
she requested him to build a pleasure garden which he proceeded to do, also
creating a tank in the process. This is how Gajner was conceived, and this
was added to by the successive rulers, till maharaja Sardar Singh extended
it into a hunting lodge with an even larger tank. It was this inheritance
that Maharaja Ganga Singh was able to use for diplomatic gains, perfecting
the hunt to a fine art, and contagious with the hospitality with which it
became associated. It was during his rule too that the new Gajner palace was
designed by sir Swinton Jacob, complete with twin dressing rooms per room
to allow couples to get dressed at their own pace. While the annex to the
main palace was opened as a hotel in 1976, the palace too is a hotel now with
25 rooms and a restaurant on the premises.
Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary (32km)
The wildlife sanctuary amidst green surrounding on the road to Jaisalmer,
which provides shelter to chinkaras, blackbucks, blue bull (neel gai),Wild
Boar and flocks of imperial sand grouse and many other birds and waterfowls
which flock here in large numbers.
Royal Cenotaphs At Devi Kund Sagar (8 km)
The Royal crematorium has several exquisite cenotaphs which were built in
memory of the deceased members of the ruling family of Bikaner. The Chhatries
(Cenotaphs) of the early rulers were made of red sandstone, ornamentation
on which resembles very much with carving work on some of the buildings of
Fatehpur Sikri. Maharaja Suraj Singh's Chhatri is the most impressive of all,
created entirely n white marble with spectacular Rajput paintings on the ceiling
The later Cenotaphs were made from marble and very beautifully sculpted and
ornamented. Rajput painting adorn the ceiling of some of the Cenotaphs.
Katariasar Village (45 km)
On Jaipur Road ,the village is rich in ethnic rural and cultural life. View
sunset with typical desert landscape around, walk on a range of sand dunes
and enjoy desert lifestyle. Villager’s main profession is cattle rearing
and milk production. the founder of Jasnathi sect of fire dancers- Jasnathji
hail from this very place. Herds of chinkara, desert fox ,rabbit ,peacock,
parrot and pat ridges are found in plenty around the village.
Fire Dance
If there is divine protection to be offered, the Jasnaiths of Bikaner and
Churu must be responsible for cornering most of it. These dancers perform
on a large bed of flaming coals, their steps moving to beat of drums that
rises in crescendo till the dancers appear to be in a near hypnotic state.
And no, they are not likely to have any blisters to show for it. These devotional
performances are usually to be seen late on a winter’s night.
Dining Out
All kinds of Indian cuisines and a medley of Continental, Chinese and
American style fast food is available in Bikaner, alongside the traditional
Rajasthani food. Local dishes are spicy, made so by the generous use of red
chilli pepper. Lentils, gram flour, wheat and millet are the staples accompanying
the vegetable curries, game birds and rabbit meat dishes. The ubiquitous Indian
sweetmeats and savouries are particularly well made in Bikaner and include
the famous ‘Bikaneri Bhujiya’.
Shopping
Bikaner is famous for leather products made from camel hide, including delicately
embroidered ‘mojris’ (slip-on shoes), lacquer work, camel and
sheep wool carpets and other handicrafts. Given its long history of trade,
its markets brim with bargains! The city is well known through India for its
spicy savouries and ‘rasgullas’ - spongy cottage cheese balls
soaked in syrup.
The rulers of Bikaner follow a policy of not allowing their heritage to be
used for commercial activity, and so no shops are allowed in the Fort. However,
they have relaxed this policy for 'Abhivyakti', an interesting shop at the
entrance of the Junagarh Fort run by the Urmul Trust, which has done sterling
work for the empowerment and uplift of rural communities. It sells high quality
ethnic furniture (stools, chairs etc), cotton and woollen handlooms - cushion
covers, durries, shawls, carpets, clothes, and knick-knacks made by the people
from 70 neighbouring villages. The commendable thing is that no middlemen
lap up any profits and the proceeds go directly to the villagers for funding
education and health programmes. It’s the perfect place to shop with
a clear conscience!
Visiting
Beat the heat. The best time to visit Bikaner is between October and March,
the winter months in India. Visitors could try and plan to be in Bikaner in
January, when the city comes alive with action in preparation for the colourful
Camel Fair.
How to get there
By Air : Travellers who wish to fly in to Bikaner will have
to use the nearest airport at Jodhpur (253 km). Taxis, tourist buses and state
roadways buses available outside the airport provide transportation from Jodhpur
to Bikaner - approximately 7 hrs driving time. You could rent a car or jeep
through a reliable travel agent or tour operator.
By Train : Bikaner is well connected to Delhi, Jaipur, Jodhpur,
Allahabad (Uttar Pradesh), Bhatinda (Punjab), Kalka (Himachal Pradesh) and
Calcutta (West Bengal) by regular train services in both fast and mail train
categories after the Western Railway’s conversion to broad gauge rail.
By Road : Bikaner is linked by good, all weather roads that
are part of the state and national highways linking the major cities of north
India like Delhi (458km), Jaipur (354 km), Jodhpur (249km) and Jaisalmer (312
km). State Roadways and private bus owners operate air-conditioned and ordinary
bus services from Bikaner to all parts of Rajasthan as well as to destinations
in the neighbouring states of Delhi, Haryana and Punjab. Rented cars and jeeps
and conducted tours are available from Delhi, Jaipur and Jodhpur for Bikaner.
