'The Abode of the Lord of the World’ is the literal meaning of Bhubaneshwar,
the capital city of Orissa. Popularly known as the "Temple City of India",
it is the seat of 'Tribhubaneshwar’ or 'Lord Lingaraj', the Lord of
the Three Worlds – the God Shiva. In case you missed the point, Bhubaneshwar
is temple town and the temples are just about everywhere. You round a corner
and there it is another temple. You fall asleep and wake up to the ringing
of temple bells and chanting of shlokas! The skyline of old Bhubaneshwar has
temple spires extending tall fingers into the clouds with saffron pennants
announcing the all-encompassing presence of Hinduism. New Bhubaneshwar with
its modern buildings and extensive infrastructure perfectly blends into the
religious ambience.
History
The history of Bhubaneshwar is reflective of its ruling dynasties religious
inclinations, whether towards Hinduism, Jainism or Buddhism. The first mention
of this historic city as the capital of the ancient kingdom of Kalinga dates
back to the fourth century BC. The battle of Kalinga fought between the armies
of the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka and the Kalinga armies ended with the massacre
of over one million people. The victorious Ashoka was distraught at the havoc
he had wreaked and embraced Buddhism. The rock edicts at Dhauli, just outside
Bhubhaneshwar testified the Emperor’s change of heart and spread the
message of the Buddha. Under Jain monarchs of the Chedi dynasty, Jain monks
sculpted rock caves at Khandagiri and Udaigiri to be used by Jain munis (monks)
as monasteries. Hindu dynasties transformed the city into a temple town with
innumerable places of worship.
It was only after the fifth century A.D that Bhubaneshwar became a force to
reckon with. It became a key centre for Shaivite Hinduism that worships Shiva,
the God of Destruction in the Hindu Trinity and Parvati his consort, as Shakti,
the all powerful Mother Goddess the Hindu rulers kept the Mughals at bay till
the 15th century, but once Bhubaneshwar fell to the Mughals, they razed all
but the few remaining temples. Later, it passed from the Maratha to the British
hands. After independence with Cuttack, the provincial capital bursting at
the seams, the Indian Government officially declared Bhubaneshwar the new
capital of Orissa
Places to See
Sisupalgarh
About two kms from the Lingaraj Temple lie the ruins of Sisupalgarh. The ruins
of the fortified city dating back to 3-4th century BC, speaks of a civilisation
with its roots, deep in myths and history. Walk among the ruins, it is sure
to take you back in time.
Bindusagar
Legends say that Goddess Parvati became thirsty, and the Lord, told all the
water bodies to donate a drop of water. Biding to the Lord's desire, each
water body across India gifted a drop making up the Bindhusagar, a small lake
around which most of the temples sprang up in Bhubaneswar. A dip in this tank
is said to wash away your sins.
Bhubaneswar, during its pre independence days, had more than 7000 temples,
of which about 500 are still functioning. We take you through a trip of the
major temples in the city.
Lingaraj Mandir
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, in the Hindu triology, this 54m high temple is part
of a complex of more than 150 small shrines, some of which are more than 1400
years old. The main gate is guarded by two mustachioed yellow lions! And sets
the rituals here apart from the rest of India is that the idol of Lord Shiva,
in the main temple is bathed daily according to rituals in water, milk and
bhang, a local brew which is slightly narcotic! The temple was closely associated
with arts and dance forms, and it had a natyagriha for the dancers, which
are decked up with intricate carvings. The flip side is that the temple is
closed to those who are non Hindu’s. But do not be deterred by that.
There is a viewing platform built almost around the temple, and you can see
the sights from slightly afar!
Parasurameswar Mandir
Dating back to AD 650, the temple is one of the oldest temples in Bhubaneswar.
It is engulfed by about 20 other smaller temples. It is dedicated to Lord
Shiva.
Vaital Mandir
Tantric to the core, with symbols of human sacrifice and steeped in some unique
temple sculptures, talking loudly of eroticism, this 8th century temple is
a double storied wagon roof structure influenced by Buddhist cave architecture.
It is dedicated to Goddess Chamundi (Kali) who, beneath her robes wears a
necklace of skulls! One of the most interesting aspects here is a motif with
sun god, Surya, which some believe became the blue print for the famous Sun
temple in Konark.
Rajarani Mandir
Set in an open paddy field, this temple is no longer a temple in the strict
sense of the word. Worship here, is long since stopped, but you can enter
and see the sculptures. Beyond the well kept garden, you are in for a surprise.
The walls are aesthetically done up with subtle carvings of women and couples,
many hinging on eroticism. May be this is why many people call it a love temple!
They charge an entrance fee for non Hindus.
The other major temples are the Mukteswara Mandir, dating back to the 10th
century. It has been considered by researchers as a transition point between
the early and later phases of the Kalinga school of temple architecture. The
Siddheswar Mandir in the same compound is famous for the elephant faced god
Ganesha's idol. The Kedaragauri Mandir too forms part of this complex. The
temples are a perfect blend of Hindu, Jain and Buddhist styles of architecture.
All these temples too sport subtle images of eroticism. The ISKON temple and
the Ram Mandir, though comparatively new, have many visitors.
Orissa State Museum
Take a stroll through this museum and get introduced to the state's rich past.
The museum houses a rare collection of palm leaf manuscripts, in addition
to lot of sculptures, coins, copper plates, stone inscriptions, armours, bronze
age tools, paintings and anthropological specimens. Also on show are the traditional
folk musical instruments. It is open from 10am to 5pm from Tuesday to Sunday.
The museum is closed on government holidays.
Caves
Khandagiri and Udayagiri Caves
Just 7kms west of Bhubaneswar are the twin hills of Khandagiri and Udayagiri.
The coarse grained sandstone has been carved and tunneled to create a honey-combed
multi storied apartment residence for Jain Monks as early as 2nd centaury
BC. Khandagiri has 19 caves and Udayagiri has 44 caves. The Hathi Gumpha at
Udayagiri, is famous for the inscriptions and the Rani Gumpha has a spacious
courtyard and elaborate sculptural friezes. Take the walk way from the lower
storey of the Rani Gumpha and you reach the Ganesha Gumpha which is one of
the most well preserved. It has two dwelling-spaces with verandah in front
can reached by a short staircase from the courtyard.
Excursion
Nandankanan Zoo
About 15kms away from Bhubaneswar is the Nandankanan Zoo on the Kanjia Lake,
amidst the Chandaka forest. It also contains a Botanical Garden. What makes
a trip to the Nandankanan zoo famous is the albino tiger population. In addition
to the white tiger, it also houses over 67 kinds of mammals, 81 species of
birds and 18 varieties reptiles. It is also famous for its crocodile breeding
farm.
Dhauli
or Dhawalagiri is 8kms away from Bhubaneswar. It is surrounded by paddy fields.
It was here that Emperor Ashoka fought and won the gory war of Kalinga. The
blood and violence, they say altered Ashoka's outlook on life and he embraced
Buddhism. The Shanti Stupa Peace edict- and the rock cut edicts dating back
to his time, continue to stand tall here. The hills also have a temple dedicated
to Lord Dhavaleswar, which was reconstructed in 1972.
Hirapur
about 15 kms from Bhubaneswar is special for its 11th century temple of sixty
four Yoginis. The second of its kind in Orrisa, it is one of the four such
unique temples in India.
Atri
The Atri hot sulphur spring 42kms away from Bhubaneswar is believed to have
healing powers. It also has a famous temple dedicated to Lord Hatakeswar.
Konark
Famous for the magnificent Sun Temple, a trip to this place is a must for
anyone coming to Bhubaneswar. About 65kms away from Bhubaneswar, the trip
may take a maximum of two hours, but it is worth it. So head out early in
the morning and enjoy this work of art. The temple is designed as a colossal
chariot with seven horses and twelve huge wheels, carrying the Sun God, Surya,
across the heavens. Built by King Narasimhadeva in the thirteenth Century,
it is one of the most stunning monuments of religious architecture in the
world.
Chilka
The largest brackish water lake in Asia, Chilka is home to lots of dolphins
and over 165 species of migratory birds. Do take a trip to this place; it
is really worth the 110kms trip from Bhubaneswar.
Dining Out
Eating out in Bhubaneshwar runs along predictable lines like top notch
restaurants with a la carte menus featuring a medley of cuisines, casual eating
establishments and wayside stalls selling food on the move. The local cuisine
highlights are prawn and crab curries, delicate white "pomfret"
fish served with boiled rice, fresh vegetables, yogurt and a variety of sweetmeats.
Also available is the ubiquitous spicy and pungent South Indian dishes. Sold
by street vendors and a favourite with locals and visitors alike is fresh
coconut water - ‘nariyal pani’. The vendor takes a green coconut,
slashes off the top with a fearsome looking knife, inserts a straw and there
it is, refreshingly sweet and as safe as the best-bottled water.
Shopping
Orissa is a land of traditional handloom and handicrafts. Cuttaki, Sambalpuri
and Ikat are some of the traditional handlooms with unique designs. The local
shops and emporiums stock a wide variety of silk and cotton textiles as well
as other dress material. Appliqué handicrafts of Pipli, silver filigree
of Cuttack, horn and conch shell articles, etc are worthy souvenirs.
The Market Building Complex on Rajpath is a popular place to source locally
woven material. The emporium run by the state handloom cooperative is also
located here.
The latest addition to the city is the Ekaamra Haat on Madhusudan Marg (open
10 am to 9 pm). Located within a well laid out garden, it houses over 40 shops
and is often the venue of exhibitions and artisans' meet. Try Orissa's many
delicacies in the food court here.
For modern buys, try the Forum Mart in Kharvel Nagar, with Big Bazar being
its mainstay. There is also a multi cuisine food court and a Pizza Hut outlet.
Visiting
Winter (December-January) is the best time to visit. The weather generally
remains pleasant between October and March. Temperatures soar beyond 40 degree
Celsius between April and June. Heavy showers hit the city during the monsoon
(July to September).
How to get there
By Air :The only airport in the state is here, in Bhubaneshwar.
It caters to domestic flights alone, and regular commercial flights from Calcutta,
Delhi, Chennai and Hyderabad. There are taxis and auto rickshaws that will
take to your destination in town.
By Train :Bhubaneshwar is one of the two railheads in the
state that are connected by trains to all the other metro cities of India
like Calcutta, Mumbai, Delhi and Chennai.
By Road : The bus station at Bhubaneshwar almost looks like
a mad house with interstate and intra state buses arriving and departing at
regular intervals. The state run roadways buses leave a lot to be desired
but some of the private ones are more tolerable, faster, less crowded and
a little bit more comfortable. There are scheduled buses to Calcutta and to
Vishakapatnam in neighbouring Andhra Pradesh. Driving oneself can be fraught
with adventure, not always a happy experience as roadside facilities are lacking.
In a bus, the breakdown is the driver's headache, not yours.
