Amritsar is synonymous with the breathtaking Golden Temple. The spiritual
nerve centre of the Sikh faith built around the holy pool amrit sarovar from
which Amristar draws its name. Breathtaking mesmerizing...lasting impressions
these words fail to do justice to the view that greets you when you step into
this spiritual nerve centre, the aura of which radiates and surrounds you
to the very core of your being. You cannot, but, be drawn into the magic that
this temple weaves like the suns rays reflecting off it. It is a haven of
peace amidst an essentially congested city. But nonetheless, it leaves you
spellbound; it leaves you with a sense of awe; it leaves you with a feeling
of supreme contentment. It brings you a step closer to God.
Punjab’s second largest town was a traditional junction for trade routes.
And this is very evident when you see different people from varied cultures
and their footprints in the composite of culture and heritage which reflects
in almost every aspect of Amritsar.
Long back, Amritsar was the paramount city of the Orient, surpassing even
Lahore in cultural greatness and prosperity. The city has been, over centuries
been witness to several violent revolutions. Scars remain, but it has outgrown
them and has now evolved into a gateway to Punjab and northern India. It is
also the entry point for travelers coming into India by land from Central
Asia. A fast developing hub for commercial activities, Amritsar continues
to maintain its charm and hospitality, thanks to the friendly and hearty Sardarjis.
You cannot, but help falling in love with Punjab and Amritsar, with its all
encompassing love for life and vibrancy and color seems to draw you into its
magic and even before you realize, you are half in love with the place and
the people
History
The origin of the city of Amritsar lies shrouded in mystery. According to
recorded history, the greatest of the Mughal emperors, Akbar granted the land
which is now Amritsar to Guru Ram Das, the fourth guru of the Sikhs. Some
also say that it was purchased by Guru Ram Das. What we do know for sure is
that Guru Ram Das himself supervised the founding of the city which was established
by 1577.
Life here was centered on the Amrit Sarovar'a lake which was built in the
middle of the city and the Golden Temple. Trade flourished and soon the land
itself came to be called Amritsar.
The Golden Temple was ransacked by the invading Afghans in 1761 and rebuilt
in 1803. Raja Ranjit Singh ruled the sovereign Sikh commonwealth until the
1849 annexation of Amritsar by the British.
Amritsar saw two very violent political clashes, but there the similarity
ends! The Jallianwala Bagh Massacre on 13 April 1919 saw British troops fire
mercilessly at a crowd of peaceful Indian protesters. The massacre left thousands,
including women and children dead and wounded. This caused nation-wide resentment,
and sounded the death knell for the British Empire in India. The memorial
to the martyrs is a place of pilgrimage for Indians. Another black day in
the city’s history was Operation Blue Star (6 June 1984) when soldiers
of the Indian Army marched into the sacred temple and killed hundreds of Sikh
separatists huddled inside
Places to See
Harmandir Sahib (Golden Temple)
Located in the heart of Amritsar, the Golden Temple Complex is surrounded
by a maze of narrow lanes, or katras that house one of the busiest markets
in India. The Temple sits on a rectangular platform in the centre of the Amrit
Sarovar. A dip in this holy pond is believed to cleanse both mind and body.
The brownie points that one dunk here fetches you is considered equivalent
to that earned by visiting various holy cities. The temple is surrounded by
a white marble corridor, which is encircled by pilgrims visiting the shrine.
A narrow causeway leads to the Harmandir, or Darbar Sahib, the main temple.
The archway at the entrance is decorated with intricate inlay work. Verses
from the Granth Sahib are inscribed on the doorway. Unlike the temples in
the South, the Golden Temple is open to all faiths.
You can leave your shoes, socks, sticks and umbrellas outside at the cloakroom
at no charge. Visitors should wash their feet outside the entrance. Best to
go early in the morning as the marble on the floor gets too hot by noon. Dress
appropriately and cover your head in the temple precincts. Head scarves are
available during the day, but not at night; a handkerchief should suffice.
Avoid sitting with back towards the temple. You may wish to visit the community
kitchen for breakfast (dawn to 0900) before visiting the temple. The Information
Office near the main entrance is very helpful.
Akal Takht
Next to the Harmandir is the religious governing body of the Sikhs, called
the Akal Takht. The Adi Granth, Bible of the Sikhs, is housed in the ground
floor of the building and is taken out in procession every morning to be placed
at the Harmandir Sahib. Again at night, it is brought back to the Akal Takht.
A very moving and somber ceremony that leaves you sniffing into your tissue.
If you miss the early morning or evening processions, the palanquin that bears
the Adi Granth can be viewed in the treasury room of the Akal Takht.
Tower of Baba Atal Rai
Built in the memory of Baba Atal Rai, son of Sri Har Gobind Ji, the sixth
guru , this octagonal nine-storeyed structure is best known for its beautiful
frescoes, all depicting the life of Guru Nanak.
Majaar Baba Sheikh Braham
The only place in India where Pakistani citizens are allowed to make an annual
and unofficial visit without a visa. Baba Sheikh Brahamji's tomb is situated
in Mian Wala Village (Tehsil Khemkaran). A big fair is organised towards the
end of the monsoons when people from both sides of the border come to pay
their respects at the majaar. It is believed that a wish made here is always
fulfilled.
Ram Tirath Temple
On the outskirts of Amritsar, this is believed to be the spot where sage Valmiki's
ashram once stood, and where Lord Rama's sons Lav and Kush were born. The
temple has sculptures illustrating scenes from the Ramayana.
Jallianwala Bagh
About half a kilometer north of the Golden Temple, it is here that on 13th
April 1919, British troops led by General Dyer fired mercilessly at a group
of peaceful protestors. A plaque at the entrance recounts the history of the
massacre. A martyrs memorial stands on the eastern end, while the well (into
which many jumped in the desperate attempt to escape death) and bullet-ridden
walls remain mute but horrifying testimonials to the ruthless massacre. There
is the Martyr's Gallery here which is open from 9 am to 5 pm in summer and
from 10 am to 4 pm during winter.
Ram Bagh
This beautiful garden contains the summer palace of the erstwhile ruler of
Punjab, Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The garden’s pride is the Darshani Deorhi,
the main entrance which is architectural marvel. There is a museum showcasing
oil paintings, miniatures, coins and weapons.
Pul Kanjari
A small village on the Amritsar-Lahore road, it was an important trading centre
during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. It is said that during the Raja’s
stay here, a dancer regularly entertained him. One day, while crossing the
canal, one of her shoes fell into the water.
It was on her insistence that the Maharaja built a pul or bridge over the
canal. The village was captured during the 1965 and 1971 wars with Pakistan,
but recaptured after some fierce fighting. There is a memorial built in memory
of the brave jawans who lost their lives in the 1971 war.
Excursion
Wagah
A trip to the Wagah Checkpost about 30 km west of Amritsar is a must. This
is the border check post between India and Pakistan. Be sure to plan your
trip in the evening. For it is by sunset that the closing the border ceremony
happens. What ensues is a 20 minute ceremony of pure theatre. With a bellow
from each guard room a troop of colourfully clad soldiers from both countries
parade up and down. The gates are thrown open and the commanding officers
march up to each other and perform a handshake and exchange salutes. The flags
of both the countries are then lowered and the gates slammed shut. This is
a daily routine and begins at 4.30 pm during winter and 5.30 pm in summer.
Tarn-Taran
About 24 km south is the town of Tarn-Taran, founded by Sri Guru Arjan Dev
in 1590. The gurudwara constructed by the Guru stands on the side of a large
tank. Fairs are held here every amavas (dark night of the month), birth anniversaries
of the ten Gurus, Baisakhi and Diwali. A few kilometers further down Tarn-Taran
is the town of Goindwal, where Guru Amar Das established a centre for preaching
Sikhism. A baoli, or well, paved with 84 steps was constructed here. The devout
believe that bathing in the well and reciting the Japji Sahib, the divine
'word' revealed to Guru Nanak Dev, on each step provides liberation from 84,000
cycles of life and death.
35 Gurudwaras
There are tours running from the Golden Temple complex covering 35 gurudwaras
around Amritsar, including those at Gobindwala, Tarn Taran, Baba Bikala, Buddha
Sahib, Khadoor Sahib, Damdama Sahib and Chheharta. The bus leaves from the
clock tower near the Golden Temple at 8 am and returns around 5 pm. Hari Ke
Pattan on the outskirts of the city is a popular picnic spot. Sitting on the
confluence of the Beas and Sutlej rivers, it is a bird sanctuary and good
spot for angling. The village of Amanat Khan, southwest of Amritsar has an
old Mughal 'serai' (rest house) with a tiled gateway. Nearby is a mosque with
Persian inscriptions and the tomb of Amanat Khan.
Harike Wildlife Sanctuary
The Harike wetland about 40 minutes drive from Amritsar is one of the finest
virgin bird sanctuaries in the country. At this confluence of Beas and Sutlej,
one can see a host of migratory birds as well as many species of wild animals
in their natural habitat. It is a welcome winter home to about 350 odd species
of birds from far flung lands of China, Siberia, Afghanistan and Pakistan.
The wetland area is spread over a vast expanse of about 148 sq.km and is located
approximately 55 kms south of Amritsar, 83 kms from Jalandhar, 70 kms from
Kapurthala, 56 kms from Ferozpur and 15O kms from Chandigarh North West, and
has both road and rail transport (the nearest railway station is Makhu 5 km
away from Harike).
Satluj Water Body Wetland
This vast lake is the winter home of over 250 species of migratory birds.
A beautiful 30 km stretch of crystal clear water, it serves as a popular picnic
spot and offers angling, kayaking, canoeing, and boating.
Kanjili Wetland
Located in Kapurtala District is this yet another beautiful lake with boating
facilities. It was declared a wetland of national importance in 1992 on account
of the rich biodiversity it supported.
Fatehabad
There is a beautiful mosque here, some 40 km from Amritsar, whose walls are
decorated with beautiful floral motifs.
Jagdev Kalan
is related with the name of Muslim poet Hasham Shah, the famous author of
Sassi-Punnu. In an era of Indo-Pak bonhomie, this village is a hotspot for
mutual meeting-ground of interests, secular thinking and composite heritage.
Kotli Sultan Singh
about 32 kilometers from Amritsar, is the native place of Mohammad Rafi, the
legendary singer of the celluloid world.
Serai Amanat Khan
Is a very charming and elegant structure situated in a small village south
west of Amritsar. The Serai has a beautiful gate constructed in a Mughal style
of architecture. The tomb of Amanat Khan is surrounded by four minarets. The
mosque near the tomb is decorated with Persian verses.
Dining Out
Stop keeping track of your calories the city has the highest consumption
of desi ghee and butter in the state of Punjab. Everything served here is
large, and with oodles of ghee. The traditional Makki-ki-Roti and Sarson-ka-Saag
with chunks of homemade butter, accompanied by a lota (tall glass) of cold
buttermilk or lassi are staple and very special.
A number of non-vegetarian joints offer mouth watering delicacies made of
chicken and meat. Surjit Chicken and Chawla Chicken at Lawrence Road are famous
for their butter chicken; Bira Meat Shop at Majitha Road is popular for its
roasted chicken and keema naan.
Kulcha chhole and puri chhole are Amritsari specialties. Almost every area
has its own kulcha puriwalla. Punjabis love lassi and Gian Halwai and Ahuja
Lassi Wala are specialists in whipping this up. Beware that the drink is loaded
with cream and more cream and is a meal in itself.
Another landmark is Kesar Da Dhaba, famous for its parantha, mah ki dal and
chana. Aminchand Sodha Company is famous for its lemonade, and pista and badam
milk.
Shopping
Shopping in Amritsar is a memorable experience.
The market places, lanes, bazaars, squares, and plazas hum with activity.
The main shopping areas are the Hall Bazaar, Katra Jaimal Singh and Lawrence
Road. The city offers traditional souvenirs along with modern brands at all
locations. The main attraction however is the woolens, carpets and blankets,
besides juttis and embroidered work. The bazaars of Amritsar offer a colourful
range of traditional and modern wares, right from carpets, durries, kites,
fireworks, bangles, shawls to cut-glass and woolen textiles. At Guru Bazaar,
near the Golden Temple, each lane sells a different commodity.
Shopping options mostly revolve around handicrafts and rugs with prices being
competitive, and a little bargaining being of good use. Woolen blankets and
sweaters are cheaper in Amritsar than in other parts of India as they are
locally manufactured. Katra Jaimal Singh in the old city is a good shopping
area.
Amritsar has brisk sale during Diwali days in woolen cloth and cattle, sweetmeats
and brass utensils, and candles and crackers. A big cattle fair is also held
outside the city which lasts for 12 days.
Guru Bazaar
Still famous for its intricately-designed gold ornaments, it was frequented
by British ladies in the past. The city was also a favourite spot for chess
pieces, which were carved from ivory and exported to Britain. Chess pieces
are now made from sandalwood and rosewood. Katra Jaimal Singh, near the telephone
exchange in the old city, is a great place to shop.
Golden Temple Bazaar
The bazaar in front of the main entrance to the Golden Temple carries a huge
selection of merchandise - from Sikh daggers to swords and karas (steel bangles).
Make sure the karas you buy are made of stainless steel, a fake kara will
erode in a few months. Every lane south and west of the Golden Temple specialises
in a particular product or craft.
Visiting
The best time to visit Amritsar is between November and March when the weather
is very pleasant. Summers get really hot and visitors need to acclimatize
themselves to this dry and searing heat.
How to get there
By Air : The Rajasansi airport, about 11 kms. from town,
is connected by domestic flights to Delhi, Srinagar and Chandigarh. You can
get to town by a pre-booked rented car, taxis or auto-rickshaws.
By Train : Amritsar is connected by direct trains to major
Indian cities like Delhi, Jammu, Mumbai, Nagpur, Calcutta and Puri. The bi-weekly
train to Pakistan, Samjhauta Express, has recently been discontinued by the
Indian government due to escalation of cross-boder hostilities.
By Road : You can drive into Amritsar from neighbouring states.
Bus services also connect Amritsar with most north Indian towns, including
Chandigarh (235 Kms), Delhi (450 Kms), Shimla, Kulu, Manali, Dharamshala and
Dalhousie in Himachal Pradesh, Dehradun and Rishikesh in Uttar Pradesh and
Jammu. There is also a bus service to Lahore, 35 kms away, which is the only
overland connection between India and Pakistan.
