Ahmedabad is the city which relives history.
The city is associated with the freedom struggle and has managed to retain its
old world charm while evolving into a modern city. The Kohinoor amongst Indian
cities, Ahemdabad envelops you into its vibrant folds- be it the allure of the
traditional mirror work and the tie and dye prints or the ghamthi prints as
the famous Law Garden hawkers would call it or in the glorious nine nights of
Navratras (celebrated during October) or the famous Makar Sankranti festival
(Kite flying festival held in January). The historic appeal is not lost on you
as you run into a historic monument at every corner and you cannot escape the
warm smile or the richness that engulfs you. So indulge in this old world charm
that promises a mystique in the midst of a bustling city.
History
The city is also referred to as Karnavati, a name for an older city that existed
in the same location. It was founded in the 15th century by Sultan Ahmed Shah,
and also served as the capital of the Sultanate of Gujarat. Legend has it that
the Sultan, while camping on the banks of the Sabarmati, saw a hare chasing
a dog. Impressed by this act of bravery, Ahmad Shah, who had been looking for
a place to build his new capital, decided to locate it here and called it Ahmedabad.
The British established a major military cantonment and township in Ahmedabad
and incorporated the city into the Bombay Presidency, thereby, increasing its
population and commercial importance. Important milestones of the Indian freedom
movement like Quit India and Satyagraha were strongly supported by the people
of Ahmedabad. The new city on the west bank, has the site of Mahatma Gandhi’s
famous Sabarmati Ashram from where he began his historic Salt March. Although
most of the Old City walls have gone, many monuments remain, some of them striking
examples of Indian Islamic architecture. The provincial Gujarati style flourished
from the mid 15th century, and in addition to the religious buildings many of
the houses have facades beautifully decorated with wood carving. The Swami Narayan
temple, Rajani Vaishnav Temple and Harkore Haveli, near Manek chowk as well
as havelis on Doshiwadani Pol, illustrated the traditional carving.
However, today’s Ahmedabad is a bustling business centre and the hub of
India’s textile trade. It boasts of spectacular designs by famous architects,
among them Louis Kahn, Correa to name a few. The School of Architecture, the
National Institute of Design and Indian Institute of Management (IIMA) are national
centres of learning.
Places to See
Gandhi Ashram
Without doubt the biggest tourist attraction in Ahmedabad, Gandhi Ashram symbolises
the city’s unique association with India’s freedom movement and
the Father of the Nation. Founded by Gandhiji in 1915, it lies on the banks
of the Sabarmati River and was referred to as the Satyagraha Ashram during the
lifetime of the Mahatma. It was from here, that the Mahatma began his famous
Dandi March in 1930 to protest against the Salt Tax imposed by the British.
One can see the three wise monkeys and many more of Gandhiji's teachings in
the ashram premises. His only possessions, a pair of spectacles, spinning wheel,
walking stick, and a pair of dhotis are displayed in the room where he lived.
The ashram today continues the work started by Mahatma and houses a handicrafts
centre, a handmade-paper factory and a spinning wheel factory.
Timings: 9.30 am-5.30 pm, Mondays closed.
Sidi Sayed Mosque
This beautiful mosque is renowned for its intricately designed screens (jhali),
framed in ten semi-circular windows. The screens are carved out of one rock
is noteworthy.
Bhadra Fort
Built in 1411 during the Maratha rule, the fort has charming palaces and well-laid
gardens. It also boasts of a temple of Bhadrakali.
Jhulta Minara
An architectural marvel, Jhulta Minara or Shaking Minarets are a part of the
mosque of Siddi Bashir. It is said that if you shake one minaret the other
one will also begin to quiver. One of the minarets was partly demolished by
an Englishman to assuage his curiosity about the architectural principles
employed in this structure. The mosque was built by master craftsmen and the
crucial mechanism that leads to the vibration is still a mystery.
Kankaria Lake
This circular lake was built in 1451 by Sultan Qutub-ud-Din. In its centre
is an island garden with a summer palace known as Nagina Wadi.
Jumma Masjid
One of the most beautiful mosques in western India, the superbly proportioned
Jumma Masjid (1423 AD), is constructed in yellow sandstone and has 15 domes
resting on approximately 250 columns of various heights. Its excellent workmanship
and grand scale make it truly outstanding.
Rani Sipri Masjid
It is a small, exquisitely designed mosque, while the Rani Rupmati Mosque named
after the Sultan’s Hindu wife, has a dome that is slightly raised to permit
light to come in around its base.
Excursion
Adalaj Step-well
Adalaj is a village 18 km to the north of Ahmedabad. The vav (step-well) here
Adalaj derives its name from the lady patron, Ruda, wife of the Vaghela chief
Virsinh, who built it in the 15th or 16th century AD. The Vav has three entrance
stairs leading to a stepped corridor. These three entrances meet in the first
storey, underground, in a huge square platform. The platform rests on 16 pillars;
each of its four corners has built-in shrines with doors, windows and balconies.
Lothal
A 70-km (2 hours) drive from Ahmedabad will take you to a Harappan settlement
dating back to 2nd millennium BC. A very well-maintained 4,000-year-old dockyard
can be seen here.
Sun Temple at Modhera
About 104 km away from Ahmedabad, this temple is an incredible 900 years old.
On the days of solar equinoxes, sun rays bathe the deity in the pitch dark
inner sanctum. The best time to visit Modhera is January when the Gujarat
Tourism Corporation organizes a classical dance festival at the temple.
Akshardham Temple
Located in Gandhinagar, about 20 km from Ahmedabad, this is a modern complex
built in traditional Indian architectural style. The pink sandstone building
is floodlit at dusk, houses a 2 m gold leaf idol and some relics of Sri Swaminarayan,
who led a Vedic revivalist movement 200 years ago. Timings: 0900 - 1830 (Nov
-Feb), 1000-2000 (Mar - Oct). Part closed on Monday
Patan
This miniscule town 140 km from Ahmedabad is renowned for exquisite Patola
saris. There are now only three families left who can produce the very special
and very intricate double ikat Patolas.
All the above places can be reached by hiring taxis and by bus.
Dining Out
Apna Amdavad loves food. And this is evident in the tongue-tickling range
of delicacies that the city offers. You will find at least one eating joint
in the narrowest of lanes. You can tuck into the slightly sweet Gujarati fare:
dal, bath, roti, dhokla, kadhi, theplas, srikhand, doodhpak and the rich flavours
of undhyoo. Or you can go in for spicy corn and chaat at Khau Galli in Law Garden
area and Khan Pan Bazaar at Manek Chowk. Various stalls start operating in both
these places in the evening and run till late in to the night.
Sankalp
having more than 10 branches, is perhaps the best place for south Indian dishes.
Havmore, located at CG Road (fastfood and ice-creams), Navrangpura and Judges
Bunglow Road (Indian and Continental cuisines) is famous for its chhole bhature.
But legendary are its range of innovative ice-creams like Raja Rani, Cassata
Roll Cut, and Tall Beauty.
Narmada
is an Indian specialty restaurant, with Mughlai food being its specialty. A
nice cozy atmosphere; Chestnut brown furnishing and traditional artifacts lend
color and a sense of tradition to the place. The mood is set with the live strains
of a sitar and tabla while you enjoy the food.
The Waterfall
Le Meridian is a 24-hour multi-cuisine restaurant with a delectable variety
of Indian, Chinese and Continental delights. The picture window set towards
one end of the restaurant lends a visual breather during the day and twinkling
electric flames on ornate holders light up the place at night. An ideal place
for a corporate dinner or a family night out.
Cafe Landmark
The sound of the ocean and swaying palms along with discreet lighting and a
soft saxophone set the mood at the Café. The place offers wraps, rolls,
pizzas, sizzlers, parathas and biryani and an assortment of desserts and beverages.
An ideal place to head for a mid-night snack.
Gujarati cuisine
Gujarati food, basically vegetarian, often tastes sweet to a newcomer. This
is due to the use of jaggery or sugar and generous doses of ghee in the food.
The best place to try out Gujarati cuisine is at Vishala (Tel no: 26602422),
opposite Vana Tolnaka, serves delectable Gujarati food and is a famous tourist
destination for its utensils museum. Rajwadu, near Malav Talav serves traditional
Rajasthani food. The place is done up like a Rajasthani village. Another option
is Agashiye, a part of the metro-heritage hotel, which has separate open spaces
for lunch and dinner 25506946. Conventional restaurants offering Gujarati
thalis are Toran, Pakvan dining hall and Gopi dining hall, all on Ashram Road.
Budget restaurants with a different flavour are Sankalp and Coconut Grove,
which is famous for its South Indian cuisine, Mirch Masala for the dhaba ambience
and good North Indian cuisine.
Shopping
Must-buys are the traditional hand-embroidered and tie and dye clothes. However,
haggling is the name of the game when it comes to shopping in the open markets
of Ahmedabad. The city's main market area is at Ratan Pol and Manek Chowk near
Lal Darwaja. It is crowded but you get maximum choice. The roadside shops near
Law Garden also offer good bargains. Bargaining is an art and the Gujaratis
are no doubt, the masters of this art. So, bargain to your hearts content and
you may walk away with a beautiful embroidered bed sheet or pillow covers which
would cost heaven and earth in a showroom. Shops such as Bandhej (Tel: 64221810)
and Sanskruti (Tel: 6443341) offer these traditional items at fixed (and maybe
overpriced) rates. Browse through a fascinating range of Patola silks, ethnic
fabrics, silver jewellery, furniture and handicrafts in these shops. In the
evening try the Law Garden market for ethnic and traditional clothes and white
metal jewellery. Be there by 5 pm to have an early start.
Visiting
Summers in Ahemdabad are a real scorcher. Summer starts by Mid-March and lasts
upto Mid-June. Summer temperatures climb upto 47°C. But with summer becomes
bearable with the Kesar mangoes of Junaghad which are famous in Gujarat. The
Gujaratis do justice to the fruit and mangoes in every imaginable form make
the summer worthwhile. Make sure, you enjoy the traditional Aam Raas (thick
mango juice) or the variety of raw mango pickle that promises to tickle your
taste buds. Mid-June to mid-September are the months of monsoon followed by
winter when it is enjoyable to visit Ahmedabad. The typical temperature in the
city during winter is between 5°C (night) to 20°C (day). The perfect
time to go there, however, is mid-January when the International Kite Festival
takes place, and enthusiasts come from all over the world to test their skills.
Special Events
On ‘Makar Sankranti’ (13/14/15 January) every year, the city is
at its colourful best when thousands and thousands of kites of every shape,
size and colour soar into the sky as it celebrates the International Kite Festival.
And the night sky is lit up with the twinkling of a myriad tiny paper lamps
sent up on special kites!
How to get there
By Air : Ahmedabad is connected to Mumbai, Delhi and major
cities of India by air. The city is also linked to Muscat, London and New York.
The airport lies 10km to the northeast of the city; auto rickshaws, taxis and
tourist buses will take you to your hotel or the city centre. You could have
a rented car meet you on arrival.
By Train : Ahmedabad is well connected to most destinations
in the country as well as to the different towns in Gujarat. The metro cities
of Mumbai (545 km), Delhi (915 km), Calcutta, Chennai and other major cities
are linked by a number of superfast, express and mail trains. Ahmedabad Railway
Station is located east of the old city; auto rickshaws, taxis and city buses
available outside the station facilitate access to the city.
By Road : Gujarat has the best network of roads in India. Inter-state
bus services linking Ahmedabad to other cities in the state and beyond are regular
and efficient. The roads are smooth four-lane highways in some parts of the
state and two-lane elsewhere, but all roads are well maintained and have motels,
restaurants and gas stations at regular intervals.
